EDW6100N00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the dishwaher from under the counter. Removed the adapter pipe by removing two nut drive jubilee clamps. inserted the new adapter pipe in the alignment grooves, Tightened the jubilee clamps. Tested the unit on rinse cycle. Reinstaled dishwasher under the counter. Easy.

At first I found some water on my hardwood floor by the dishwasher, I thought that I might spilled't the day before, then it hapened again, so I remover the front lower cover for the dishwasher and I found water under the dishwasher, then I turned on the machine and I found a pin hall water leak from the water inlet valve. I turned the machine off, then I closed the water valve under the sink, then I disconected the power plug from the valve, the diconected the water supply copper pipe, then diconected the house from the valve to dishwasher, then got the part# from the valve sticker and the model# for the dishwasher from inside of the door. after that I went online and I got the valve. make sure to try more than one website because they all have differant prices, and Parts Select was the lowest one.

Took off old funnel fill and put in funnel fill gasket and new funnel fill just to have a new one.

Very simple. Took off back cover with screwdriver. Popped off back cap found in center top inside. Replaced spring and white stick looking thing. Put black cover and then back panel back on. Instantly worked again.

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.

This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

This was very easy. 1) roll out lower rack, 2) rotate lower arm slightly counter-clockwise and lift it out, 3) install new lower arm by dropping into position and rotating clockwise. 4) roll in lower rack, and roll out upper rack, 5) use a nut driver to remove the retaining bolt/screw from the upper arm - it's in the center of the upper arm and you have to work from underside of upper rack, 6) remover upper arm, 7) install new upper arm by holding in position and re-inserting the retaining bolt/screw. 8) Tighten the retaining screw and make sure upper arm freely rotates.

I watched the video, read the instructions and went to work. This was the easiest repair I have ever done. I'm 71 and if I can do all 3 spray arms in a total of 15 minutes, anyone can. The hardest part was getting up off the floor when I was finished. The spray arms were all clogged, we have very hard water.

Disconnected the electricity, the drain hose, and the water supply from the dishwasher. Loosened the two screws from the countertop and pulled out the dishwasher. Turned it on to it's side. Saw the damaged inlet sump. Had to remove the Pump connector to get to the inlet sump. Checked it also and discovered that it was starting to develop a small crack from the inside. I decided to replace it as well. The job involves removing the hose clamps and removing the spray mechanizm from the interior of the dishwasher to spin out the inlet sump. Not a difficult job.

I had to pull out the built-in dishwasher by removing the top two screws and pulling it out. I unhooked the fill tubing and drain hose. I removed the drain hose hose clamps pulled the hoses off and replaced the new part by attaching the hoses w/ clamps and pluging in the two small electrical wires and it was done. worked great! This was the only site that I was able to find MY EXACT model and the part was a perfect match!!

The repairman offered to fix the dishwasher at a cost of about $200 or supply the water inlet valve for $85. Google led me to PartSelect.com where I easily found the correct part for $45. I received the part in 2 days by FedEx ground.
The hardest part of the repair was removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. I took the dishwasher out a short distance to the patio where I replaced the water valve...about 10 minutes.
I then made a makeshift connection to an outdoor water hose and connected the electricity and ran the dishwasher while out on the patio through a short cycle to make sure of the repair and check for leaks.
Then reinstalled into the cabinet...total time about 2 hours.
Thank you PartSelect.com

Repair is super easy and anyone can do it in no time!
At first my fear was that it was the pump, but after reading through the trouble shooting here it narrowed it down to the water inlet valve. The new valve even came with easy to read and understand instructions. I had it fixed in less time than it took my wife to make us lunch lol.

2 screws hold the mount bracket in place. Just remove the screws, remove the c-clip that holds the secondary/small water line on, pop the hose off then remove the main water inlet line [ its the bigger line with the brass fitting ] I only needed a pair of pliers for this. Reinstall the main water line into the new valve, but make sure you use pipe tape on the fitting or you'll have a water leak. Reinstall the secondary water line and reclip the c-clip using pliers to squeeze the clip. Hold the valve in place and reinstall the 2 mounting screws. That's it your done !!

This is the second time I've used partselect, and they are hands down the best !! Other sites would have you buying part after part until you happened to get lucky and get the right one. Not here, they help you figure out just what you need and nothing more.
Great people and fast service !!
Thank you once again.

get fingers between lower spray arm and drive flange - rotate arm counter-clock wise and lift off...the arm was warped and hitting inside of lower door liner.

Open dishwasher and remove the bottom spray wheel, filter, and unscrew the mounting bracket to release the pump connector below the bottom of the unit. Remove mounting screws at top front of dishwasher and carefully slide the unit out; you may have to pry side panels inward with a flat screwdriver in order to get the dishwasher past any cabinetry. Be careful not to pull the dishwasher too far out as the water supply and drain hoses could be damaged. Unplug the unit. Turn unit sideways and tip over onto its' back. At this point, the sump will have to be removed using a nut-driver and/or socket set. This will open access to remove the old pump connector. Replace the old connector with the new connector, and reassemble the sump, connecting and firmly tightening all connectors. Tip unit upright. Screw mounting bracket back into the bottom of the dishwasher and put the remaining parts back. Before pushing the unit back into it's nook, I advise running a quick cycle just to make sure there is no leakage. If there is no leakage, put the unit back, tighten the mounting screws and you're done.