EDW5000L15BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

Ordered your new and improved interlock cover made with better plastic (thank you). Your new spring is also better. It's bigger and longer and is now the right size. (Thank you). Your parts are better than oem. The interlock is easy to get to. The oem one is black and you can see that it is bulged. The replacement one is gray speckled with white and black. You can see the improvement by just making a comparison. Just unclip the old one and clip in the new one. . Repace panel cover. Now it works and should work now for many a year. Thanks! Parts select.

I cut the water off to the DW, unscrewed the water connection to the inlet valve, unplugged the electric connection, disconnected the black rubber line from the valve to the washer, removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place. Put the new valve on by doing the above backwards. I also used white thread tape on any connections that needed it.

Turned off electric at the fuse box and shut off the water. Pulled the dishwasher out and took out bottom sprayer (pull up and twist), filter basket etc. Then put the washer on its back and removed sump inlet and adaptor. This entails removing a couple of hose clamps and 4 bolts that hold sump inlet in place. Replaced with new. Turned over the machine and reinstalled the filter basket and sprayer after cleaning them. Reconnected the water and turned on the power. Machine works like new!!! Total parts cost me less than $50. Repair guy wanted around $300 to do it!!!!

Turned spray arm while lifting upward to remove the old part. Place new spray arm over the water outlet and turned with light downward pressure until properly seated.

It less time to do the repair than it took to open the box and unwrap the part!

removed two bottom screws on inside door panel and slid seal onto spline, reinstalled screws. Job done

Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

I replaced the broken/cracked soap and Jet Dry dispenser (i.e. MODULE RINSE AND CAP ASM - part #PS1481889). (Water was leaking into the soap holder and hardening the soap into a lump before the door would open, rendering the soad useless).

Steps:

1) Unplugged the dishwasher.
2) Unscrewed the 6 screws holding the front stainless steel panel to the plastic door; set aside panel and insulation.
3) Unplugged two wires from small electric motor in broken ASM.
4) Unscrewed 6 screws holding ASM in place; easily slid out of door.
5) Slid in replacement ASM and put 6 screws back in (tightened snugly to make slightly warped door bend to new ASM).
6) Plug back in two wires into new ASM.
7) Re-attached stainless steel cover to door (having a 2nd person hold this in place while screwing would've helped).

All done - works like a charm! No more dirty dishes because the soap didn't work right...

Bottom line: If you have a phillips head screwdriver, you can do this repair. Easy to do.

Unscrew supply tube and angle nut from old valve. Disconnect tube from valve. Install new valve. Obtain new crimp seal for water supply tube. Use Teflon tape. Reconnect water tube to valve.

The repairman diagnosed the problem as a control board failure and quoted a $350 bill. I self-diagnosed it as a failed interlock switch -- and found out that the switch was OK but the cover was cracked, preventing the switch from functioning normally. Total repair bill - $1.50!

Installing the gasket took about 45 seconds. It actually took more time to scrub the area clean prior to installing. One quick trick I found was to fold the replacement gasket in two, and use that mark to center the gasket and press it in from there. That way you don't have any guesswork as to how much slack to allow for when starting.

Disconnect electrical power & shut off water supply. Remove front panel covers. Removed mounting screws (2). Unhooked water supply line & flow line. Took off old brass adapter fitting. Teflon taped fitting to new inlet. Performed reverse procedures. It ran just fine!!

I do a lot of home repairs but I never worked on an appliance before. I simply removed the six phillips screws holding the inside cover on and then no tools. I poped open the cover over the mother board that was burned due to a power spike, unplugged it and plugged up the new one and poped it all back together. In hind sight I should have disconnected the power underneath.

Took screws out of door. Slid bottom seal off and slid new one on.