EDW4060G10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.

...on the lower rack of the dishwasher. I simply snapped the pieces together and then snapped them into place. No tools necessary other than my own two hands (and the scissors I used to cut open the package!)

Replacement of the arms is very simple, the bottom arm pulls out after turning it counter clockwise, no tool needed. The upper arms need the use of a nut driver or simlar tool to remove the hex screws holding them to the water supply tubes. The hardest part of the repair will be removing the top dish tray. This requires twisting the door slide end retainers outward to remove them and then the dish tray will slide out allowing easy removal of the arm. The top arm is mounted the body of unit.
This problem would not have occurred if there was an inline filter on the cold side to filter out calcium (whole house filter). Another way to have corrected this without the purchase of parts would be to run the dishwasher on the rinse cycle 3 or 4 times using 1 cup of lime away on each rinse and also by removing the arms and soaking the arms in a 50/50 solution of water and lime away for 24 hours. This will break down the calicum and enable the arms to be cleaned using a garden hose. New parts however save time and labor in cleaning the arms, however the main drain and supply lines to the arms still need the rinsing prior to replacing the new parts.

First and formost before you buy read everything in trouble shooting your dishwasher. Then you do not buy parts you do not need. First you turn off power, then water. Remove two screws, a rubber hose and a hard line by unscrewing if you are lucky some contractors might sweat this on. No biggie just two extra steps that's all. do in reverse to assemble...

The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.

The repair was very easy and went smoothly. Here's an overview of the steps I followed: I used a shop vac to remove as much water as possible from the dishwasher tub. I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher and then removed two screws that connect the dishwasher unit to the cabinet/counter top. I also removed two screws at the bottom of the dishwasher to remove the dishwasher's kickplate. After that I pulled the dishwasher out and uplugged the unit then tipped it on it's side to gain access to the pump assembly (it's at the bottom of the unit). The drain pump assembly was held in place by two screws and a metal band that connects the pump to the rubber/plastic drain area. Also there are two wire leads needed to be unplugged. I took a picture of the unit before removing anything so I could have a record of what it all looked like assembled. Then I took off the old pump and put on the new and put it all back together. Turned the water back on and ran a quick rinse and spin cycle and all was well! Dishwasher drained properly and there were no leaks. Easy and I saved a bit of money doing it myself.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

The part indicated here is a new design to replace a defective part that fails to keep the wheels on the lower dish rack. So far, the new axles work fine. Removal/Replacement couldn't be easier - it is helpful to use needle-nose pliers to get the old axles out. The new ones just snap in. Wheels stay on just fine. The rack is designed to roll on 8 total wheels, 4 on each side.

Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.

It was really easy I just snapped the axle and the wheels together and then snapped them onto the rack! simple as that

1. Replacing the TUB GASKET is very easy and does not require tools. Pull out the old gasket and wipe out the channel. The gasket is marked with a small paint mark at the center and that indicates where to start at the top. The larger part of the gasket goes towards the outside. Firmly press the gasket all the way into the channel. The gasket should just reach the bottom of the tub. Do not use tools or you may damage the gasket. The gasket must be nearly all the way into the channel or the door will not close. Expect the door to close quite firmly for the first few uses.

2. Replacing the DOOR BOTTOM SHORT SEAL. This repair is not technically difficult, but is physically difficult. Without complete removal of the door, nothing needs to be or can be taken apart to do this replacement. I recommend removal of the lower basket, the upper basket and the wash arm before beginning. A drop light inside the tub is helpful. Using pliers or vise-grips grab the old seal and bend up and down then back and forth until it will slide all the way to one side. Once to one side use pliers to bent towards the back until its snap seal (observe new seal) realeases and you can carefully continue by hand to remove the seal the rest of the way across the bottom of the door. Observe how the old seal came out and which side was UP. With the new seal in hand, gently work the snap seal open slightly (this will help to get it back in place). With a flashlight and inspection mirror, check where the new seal will attach to (and clean if necessary). Center the new seal with the correct side up and work from one end. You may need pliers to push in the new seal, but be very careful not to damage the new bottom seal soft part. When it snaps in place you are done.

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy