EDW4060G02SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced pumped with new pump and now its not leaking and dishwasher is working great now.

Quick and easy...a 7 yr old could have done it.

We pulled off the remaining two wheels and noted how they were attached. Then we assembled the wheel/axle assemblies and clipped them on. We hardly used any tools at all -- mostly to rip open the plastic bags containing the parts. The entire repair was probably 20 minutes and the rack works great.

I would have rated this “really easy” but the location of the machine made it tough to remove. Once I had the machine accessible it was a piece of cake. The unfortunate part of this story is that I may not have needed any parts to begin with. Knowing how tough it was to get the machine out from under the counter and having done as much diagnostics as possible before the removal I decided to order and have the suspect parts on hand before full removal. Prior to placing the order I checked all the obvious possible causes. The first part of the diagnostics was to check the drain hose for any restrictions. I used a wet vacuum at this point to remove the standing water in the bottom of the unit. I then removed the lower spray arm and fine filter in order to inspect the sump filter cover and sump filter. They were both clear of anything major that would have prevented draining. I did find a little bit of debris on the strainer in the sump but not enough to cause the issue. At his point I tried to run a wash cycle and had the same issue of water in the basin. My next step was to try the service mode to try and activate the drain pump. I could hear it hum but the water did not drain. At this point I disconnected the drain line from the T at the sink drain and used the wet vacuum sucking the water through the drain hose to assist in the draining process while activating the drain pump. The water did drain but surged as though the impeller in the drain pump was not moving freely. At this point I ordered the replacement pump and a Check Valve Flapper. Please note that a new check valve is included with the new drain pump and does not need to be ordered. You can see it in the picture of the pump but it is not mentioned in the description. When my parts arrived I turned off the power at the breaker panel and I removed the dishwasher from under the counter (not an easy thing where mine lives). Once it was out I set the unit on its side. I disconnect the two electric leads to the drain pump (make note of where they go before removal). I next loosened the two hose clamps on the intake and exhaust of the drain pump. I then removed the two screws holding the pump to the frame. This took all of two minutes. At this point I removed the Check Valve Flapper from the old pump to inspect it. Once I did this I was able to see the impeller and noticed a foreign object lodged in it. It took a little work but I managed to get the object out. Don’t ask me how it got there but I found a half of a Pistachio nut shell. It was almost translucent and felt like a piece of soft rubber. Somehow it managed to make its way past the strainers and jam the impeller. I decided at this point given the time invested that I would install the new pump and just be done with it. I have not tested the old pump but I do think that it is still functional. My recommendation for those who can easily remove the dishwasher would be to take a look before you order the pump. I did hear the hum from the pump when it was in the service mode but would never have guessed that something as large as it did bypassed the strainer and sump filter. The dishwasher is now back to its happy self and cleaning everything like the day it was first installed. I hope this helps some future folks who happen to read my story. The repair stories I read before taking on this task are what prompted me to attempt my repair. Those posted repairs experiences are also the reason I repay the good will by posting my repair experience as well.

The original lower Wheel Stud/Axel was poorly designed and used a plastic material that could not stand the heat and lost its "springyness" so they had to be replaced. The new parts including the wheel stud/axel and new wheels (I replaced all 8!) were much better designed and of a nylon like material that should not wear out from heat. Intallation is easy but be warned. Be sure to snap the wheels onto the wheel stud/axel before you install the stud/axel. Once the stud/axel is installed you can't install the wheel because the stud/axel expands and it is difficult to remove. So put the wheels on the stud/axel first and then install the the whole wheel/stud/axel assembly at once. This is not obvious.

I replaced the upper rack sliding components. It was pretty straightforward.