EDW2050F00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.

Unscrew supply tube and angle nut from old valve. Disconnect tube from valve. Install new valve. Obtain new crimp seal for water supply tube. Use Teflon tape. Reconnect water tube to valve.

First I took out the two screws that hold the drain solenoid on the unit and took off the c- clip that held the arm on the shaft if you have a digital camera take a picture to make sure you can get it back together the same way.. Then put together new unit and attatched putting the c-clip back on. Ran it through some cycles to make sure the solenoid was working. Four days later the solenoid is melted again, the timer must have an intermittentant problem I should have replaced the timer and the soleniod both at the same time. Make sure you dont make the same mistake I did. Now I will be buying a new dishwasher instead of putting any more time and money into this one.

first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly.
Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.

Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoothly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.

Removed the dishwasher, turned it over, removed 3 hoses, 2 clamps, 2 wires and one support. Installed new pump and reconnected. Done!

FILTER GASKET ASM:

1. Manually unscrewed the lower dishwasher sprayer from the base of the dishwasher. (The filter gasket cannot come out with this in the way.)

2. Using a nut driver, unscrewed the old plastic filter cage in the rear.

3. Thanks to a tip from another user on this site, I carefully pried up the metal grommets on the two plastic studs in the front. I did this slowly with a flathead screwdriver, as I was worried about breaking the plastic. (Some plastic did whittle off of the studs from the sharpness of the grommets, but not so much that they were ruined.) Note, the studs look like something that can be replaced if you break them. They are not molded into the tub, as far as I can tell.

4. Removed the old (rotten looking gasket). Be careful! The edges around the filter drain are sharp. Used a turkey baster to suck out water from the filter area and wiped away mildew. The filter recess had broken glass in it and some other yucky stuff.

5. Easily reversed process with the new gasket. The new one has a lighter color and has the plastic, upside down basket thingy built-in. (No sharp edges). I pushed the metal grommets back onto the plastic studs, working them down as tightly as possible. They seem to be holding well.

Piston and Nut Assembly for Check Valve:

I wasn't sure I needed this, but ordered it anyway after seeing comments that the seal can corrode.
Mine looked ok, apart from food build-up, but I replaced it anyways.

1. Removed the screened housing that covers the length of the bottom-rear using nut driver.

2. Unscrewed the existing valve manually. It was easy to do. Cleaned area out as best as I could.

3. Reversed process with the new part.

Shut off circuit breaker to dishwasher and shut off valve to dishwasher under sink.Remove bottom access panel screws on both sides of panel. Remove both screws holding dishwasher to counter.Place old mattboard strips under legs to prevent scratching floor & slide out from under counter. Use a Shopvac to remove water and spillage. Have rags and paper towels handy. Carefully disconnect wires, drain hose and water line to free dishwasher. Fold old rug runner in half to place dishwasher on, turn on side and then gently upside down on rug to access motor. Remove butterfly clamps, hose clamps, electrical connections, and support bracket. remove old motor and pump and place in box to discard. Position replacement motor and pump according to diagrams. Reconnect all clips, hoses and connections. Since replacement motor and pump is smaller, use longer support bracket from adapter kit. Return dishwasher to upright position and reconnect wiring using wirenuts, drain hose and waterline. Reposition mattboard strips under legs and slide back into place. Attach screws to counter top. Turn on power, water and do a test run to check for leakage. Replace bottom access panel. Pat yourself on the back since you've saved yourself hundreds of dollars for a repair or replacement of your dishwasher.

Disconnect electrical power & shut off water supply. Remove front panel covers. Removed mounting screws (2). Unhooked water supply line & flow line. Took off old brass adapter fitting. Teflon taped fitting to new inlet. Performed reverse procedures. It ran just fine!!

I made this replacement more dificult because I removed the old motor/pump earlier. Should have done it at the time I installed the new unit to be sure all hoses where installed correctly. I hooked the drain hose to the wrong port and when I started the dishwasher I found my error. Once I corrected the problem and started it again - the wash and drain cycles were perfect and there were no leaks.

After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, re-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!

First we got all the water out of the bottom of the dishwasher. Removed the old, melted drain solenoid. Very important - DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY. The solenoid that removed was melted; however I had to reuse the springs, brackets and plunger from the old solenoid. I had to scrape and clean (with a solvent) the metal plunger to reuse it. Once I got it cleaned up and re-used the old parts, mounting it was easy. However, getting that tiny lockwasher on the shaft was a real pain in the ass. Finally I got it together and it worked great.

Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.

First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started it back up. Eventually it did get going.

This was one of the easiest fixes i have ever done. All you need is a screwdriver. the hardest part about it was unscrewing the old spray arm. I found it was easiest to break the tabs on the old spray arm and pull out the spray tower, leaving the bottom part in. The bottom is the part to unscrew. I then put the metal end of the screwdriver through the two holes where the tabs were and used the screwdriver as a handle to unscrew it. Once it was taken out, I screwed the new spray arm in - buy hand -. You can feel it lock when it is all the way in.