EDW2020F00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Repair was really easy just like the repair video, but you have to lay on the floor. Unfortunately, the problem wasn't the solenoid, but the pump/motor assembly. Be sure to check the solenoid operation before replacing (making sure it is cycling). It might be the pump/motor assembly. Good luck!

I cleaned all the drains in the dishwasher and the drain in the garbage disposal that leads from the dishwasher. I also removed the piston and nut assembly and tried cleaning it but the dishwasher still did not drain. I was using a wet vac to empty the standing water after the cycle completed. I bought the new piston and nut assembly. It arrived in 24 hours. I unscrewed the 4 screws in the back of the dishwasher that held the screen that covered the assembly, used my hand to unscrew the piston and nut assembly, screwed in the new part and replaced the screen and 4 screws. It completely fixed the problem.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Simply followed the instructions for the part on the part page. One thing that helped taking out some screws was to remove a couple of the brackets that hold the heating element and move it slightly. I would suggest cleaning all of the gunk out of drains and clean all holes in the screens using a toothpick, etc. Be careful not to overtighten the nut for the next time you have to do this!

Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.

Pulled unit out. Detached drain lines and caught water in pans. Once drained unhooked the leads to the heating element. Pull lower spray assembly from base. *There are 2 tabs that must be carefully pried outwards slightly, at the same time in order to remove. Once the sprayer is out unscrew all brackets to heating element and remove. Then remove the Filter Gasket, large mat at bottom of unit. Access the drain at the back under the filter gasket and remove any drebris. Once clean install new filter gasket. At the very back you will see another filter screen. Remove the entire panel to access the piston and nut assembly. Simply unscrew the old one and install the new one. Replace cover. Reinstall heating element, lower spray assembly, and all brackets. Under unit reconnect the heat element power supply. Remount unit and run a test cycle. Hopefully this will take careof the issue for you.

While the delivery was swift, the new lower dishwasher rack wheels were narrower than the originals. The rack would fall into the lower area and not roll out easily on the channel. I removed the wide wheels from the old rack and exchanged on the new one. It took some brute hand strength but worked. Still not perfect, but better than rusted lower rack.

Researched problems on internet,based on info ordered part. Got it in 24 hrs.followed package directions. So easy and for less than a service call! Runs like a charm now.

No repair; just replacement. Delivery was very fast.

No repairs needed, just replace the lower dishrack with 2 broken wheels with the new dishrack with the wheels already attached. Easy as A,BC or 1,2,3.

Take out the screws in the side of the door (~7) and pull the two door sections apart at the top. I suggest that you tape the door latch in place since it can slide out; it can be difficult to replace. Use a short stem screw driver to take out the three screws holding the sequence switch in place, and unplug the two sets of wires. Once this is completed, the sequence switch will slide out. Reversing these steps completes the installation.

Followed the enclosed directions and the video helped a lot. My model needed a different motor mount bar than in the video but wasn't hard to figure out. From shutoff of the water, unplugging, and undoing the screws under the counter and pulling the old pump/motor and installing the new pump/motor and putting it all back took a leisurely 90 minutes. Be sure to hang onto the old plastic covers for the electric leads to reuse.