ECBP82BJ3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Charles from Sharon MA 1/14/09 has a pretty good description of what needs to be done. My model must be a little different than Charles, so I'll just tell you about the differences.

The locks that hold the hinges in place on the oven had to be flipped DOWN not UP. They are small rectangular metal brackets with a little open "notch" on the top where you can stick a small screwdriver to pry them down.

I found that I DID have to remove the six small screws (three on each hinge) that hold the hinges in place as they also went through both the inner and outer door panels.

Note that the glass assembly has a vented frame. Note that there are vents on the TOP of the frame but not the bottom - i.e. heat rises. Take care not to put the glass assembly in upside down.

Slide range out. Remove screws holding back vent in place. Remove back vent. Remove screws under front panel and knobs. Lift glass cooktop. Remove screws holding switch in place (behind knob) unplug each wire from switch and immediately replace in same spots on new switch. Replace everything.

1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.

Took old racks out, slid new ones in....exact match at a huge savings from what GE wanted per rack.
Found the company through a Google search, have it bookmarked and will be back if I need something from them.

Unplugged unit. Removed racks from oven. Removed screws from bracket holding element in. Carefully pulled element forward until the wire connections were exposed. Removed wires taking care not to let them retract into the oven. Removed element from oven. Placed new element in oven. Connected wires to element. Replaced screws to hold element in. Replaced racks. Plugged in oven. Turned on to see if working.

-Turn off breaker
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).

I reconnected the two connectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.

I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.

Pulled the oven out of it's location. Disconnected the power cord from the Electrical Outlet. Removed the Protective back plate (from the rear of the oven) which covers the wiring. Disconnected the two leads that connect the Baking Element. Went to the front of the Oven, opened the oven door, removed the two screws with a socket wrench (you can use a screw driver as well), at this point you can replace the element with the new one and secure with the two screws. I then went back to the rear of the oven and reconnected the two wires back onto the new heating element and replaced the wiring protective back plate. Reconnected the power cord to the electrical outlet and turned on the oven to see if the element heats up. AND IT DID. Moved oven back into it's original location and I was done. This took 16 minutes to do and saved me a nice amount of money. I could have had a service person show up and do this work which would have cost me $189.00 (Parts & Labor) to have done and all I spent , by ordering the part from PARTSELECT.COM, was just under $50.00.

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not."
It was a snap!

My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.

I (1) pulled the oven away from the wall to get the back of it exposed. Then I (2) pulled the plug out to make sure there was no electrical current. Then I (3) opened the oven door and tugged on the broken heating element to see how tightly it was connected in the back of the oven. Next I (4) went to the back again and slid the silver-colored metal cover that protected the exposed electrical wiring for the oven. I (5) observed that there were a number of different colored wires held in place by screws as well as some wires that disappeared into the insulation, so I (6) went back to the front of the oven and pushed the broken heating element backward to determine if its wiring would become visible from the back of the stove. I (7) observed from teh back that it did. From that point, I (8) pulled the heating element's wiring connections through the insulation until it was visible. The I (9) unscrewed the two nuts connecting the heating element to the oven's wiring. Then I (10) went back to the front and pulled the broken heating element out and (11)inserted the new heating element. Then I (12) returned to the back and connected the loose wires to the heating element and (13) pushed the heating element forward into the oven. I (14) went around to the front to ensure the heating element was positioned the same way in the oven as the old one was, then in the back (15) replaced the metal shield over the wiring and isulation, (16) plugged the oven back in and (17) turned the oven baking setting on to a high temperature to test the new element (i.e., that it was connected correctly and actually worked). I (18) observed that the oven began heating up quickly to the proper temperature, and I was greateful the new bake element worked as good the original part. I then (19) turned the oven off and pushed it all the way back to its place against the wall.

The repair job was not effortless (about 15-20 minutes) but was simple enough NOT to require an electrician. The most difficult part was physically sliding the stove out and back into its tight place between our counters.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

I order the part online on the 23rd of February 09 in the afternoon it was delivered on the 24th to the address in Florida and then fedex to me in Cayman. So I got it on the 2nd of March went home that evening after work got my pliers unpluged the stove removed the two screws that holds the element in place. I also removed the metal from the back of the unit first to make sure I was doing it right. I then pulled the element at the back and disconnected the two wires replacing it with the new one. I then replaced the back and screws and pluged it in turned on the oven waited and when I saw it turn red I felt so good. I said thank you Lord and then baked a cake. The whole installation took about 20 mins.
Thanks again.
P.S. please look into offering shipping orders overseas.

Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to prevent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.

Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.

Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.