E23CS78HSS2 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

Replaced bad parts with new parts it went easy

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

I ordered the part from PartSelect using the part number located on the valve itself. The part was delivered in less than 48 hours from the time I entered it. Replacing the valve was easy and went according to the online video instructions provided by PartSelect. The only thing extra was that I had to replace the brass compression fitting on the copper tubing connected to the inlet of the valve. The old one would not seal properly. The compression fitting was about $1.50 at Home Depot. This is my third purchase from PartSelect and I continue to be impressed by them.

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

I unscrewed the water dispenser and removed the broken piece. Take your time, it is only about 8 screw that need to come out to reach the area for the new part. The only tricky thing about the fix is a spring behind the part. Make sure its lined up, and you should be good to go. Good luck – take your time.

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

It was real easy took the lines off one by one put them on the new unit one by one same with the three plugs than tighten new unit back on fridge.

took the screw out of the white flange on the top of the door that attaches to the top of the refrigerator. Then removed the cover , and the two screws attached to the refrigerator top. Then lifted off the door removed the bottom plate that is holding the plastic door holder. and replaced the broken part and replaced the bottom plate , set the door back on the hinge and installed the top two screws and the flange cover and the last screw holding the flange cover in place. It actually took longer to type this than the repair

Downloaded a schematic of the ice container. Disassembled the ice container, keeping track of which different type of screws went where. Followed the schematic to ensure proper sequence of blades and spacers. Manually rotated unit prior to installing into the freezer in case of binding. Finished.

Easy-Breezy - took pockets out of door, lifted door out of socket, took out broken bearing - some had to be pried out and pulled out with pliers. Once out, inserted the new bearing and put the door back on by lifting into the top hinge and then letting it down into the receiver at the bottom. It took longer to clean out and put back the door pockets than it did to make the repair. Wish I had done it sooner. I am 76 and female. Should have done this a couple of years ago. Didn't know the problem until I found a part of a hinge on the floor beside the refrigerator. Then it dawned on me what might be wrong so I went online and found that "clicking" was a common problem and what to do - ordered the replacement hinge bearing and made the fix.

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running