E23CS78HPS3 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

I checked the dampener, it worked. The compressor and fan worked. I knew because my freezer was still hovering around 10 degrees. Coils were clean. Thermistor was the only thing it could be. Took all my shelves out. Removed four screws. Took the back panel off. The thermistor sits tucked in on the side. I piped it out, in clipped it. Used my multimeter to test the numbers. Numbers were off just a bit. Ordered the part. Crossed my fingers.,took less then 5 minutes to put the part in. Plugged in the fridge. It was sitting at 33 degrees in about an hour and a half. I can’t believe I fixed it. I knew NOTHING about refrigerators. For how big my fridge is, it would have cost 3,000 and up to get a new one with the same cu ft size. Instead, it cost me $44. That includes shipping. Thank you Parts Select!! Made it so easy to pick the correct part for my model fridge!

Removed the trim screw on top of the door then removed the two hinge bracket bolts. lifted the door
off placed on the table. Remove the two screws on
holding the bearing bracket on the bottom of the door.
removed the bearing and replace with the new one.
Reinstalled in reverse order.

Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.

Simply slid glass into frame & it fit perfectly.

The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.

First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .

The process:
Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.

The biggest part of the repair was getting everything out of the shelves in the door. I had to remove one phillips head screw from the plastic hinge cover on the top of the appliance. As per the owners manual I traced around the hinge with a pencil so I would be able to align the door to the same postion. Removed two screws with a nut driver and removed the top hinge. The magnetic strip held the door in place until I grabbed it and pulled it open then lifted it up off of the bottom hinge. I layed the door on the island counter and pried the bearing hinge out of the door stop and replaced it with the new one. I probably could have stopped there but figured the plate might have been worn so I remove one phillips head screw from the bottom hinge, lifted the plate off, and replaced it with the new one. I assembled everything in reverse order and voila, no more popping noises.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

I followed the other postings and the only trouble I had was re-inserting the water line tube...like everyone else. After trying several kinds of tape to wrap around and pull the line through the small opening packaging tape did it the first try. Wrap it on an angle and leave yourself a nice long "tail" to pull.

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!