E23CS75DSSH Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

The biggest part of the repair was getting everything out of the shelves in the door. I had to remove one phillips head screw from the plastic hinge cover on the top of the appliance. As per the owners manual I traced around the hinge with a pencil so I would be able to align the door to the same postion. Removed two screws with a nut driver and removed the top hinge. The magnetic strip held the door in place until I grabbed it and pulled it open then lifted it up off of the bottom hinge. I layed the door on the island counter and pried the bearing hinge out of the door stop and replaced it with the new one. I probably could have stopped there but figured the plate might have been worn so I remove one phillips head screw from the bottom hinge, lifted the plate off, and replaced it with the new one. I assembled everything in reverse order and voila, no more popping noises.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

The ice maker would over floew then not cycle it would freeze with the forks stuck in the ice! so just get your modle # and serl, # call in and order the hole ice maker it cost only about $120.00 with shipping!! it is so simple to put in just lossen the 2 1/4 screws in the back and lift up then unplug it. you do not have to turn the water off as it works off the pump at the bottem !!( note you nedd to take the ice bucket out it just slides right out !! You will save the service call from A repair man it is really very easy so by the time it took to read this you will have it done !really its that easy!!

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!

I followed the other postings and the only trouble I had was re-inserting the water line tube...like everyone else. After trying several kinds of tape to wrap around and pull the line through the small opening packaging tape did it the first try. Wrap it on an angle and leave yourself a nice long "tail" to pull.

Unscrewed screw holding plastic clip on right hand top hinge. Unfasten two lags screws holding right hand top hinge. Lift door off bottom hinge. (Do not unfastened bottom hinge) Remove old plastic bearing and replace with new. Repeat aforementioned instructions in reverse order. DOG EASY.

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

First I loosened the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...re-installed the new icemaker first attaching the wires and then fitting over the screw holders and tightened the screws. That was it!