DWUA200AAX Admiral Dishwasher - Instructions

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

First I had to unhook the electric, water line and drain hose. Then slide out the dishwasher. Took several days to find the drain hose - local stores only carried a 6 ft hose and I needed a 7 ft. Once I found it online, purchased it and recieved it I put it all back together and all is good.

Once I pulled the old broken drain valve lever lifter off the shaft, the shaft rotated counter clockwise. I then had to turn shaft back clockwise so there was enough room to slip the new part on. Needle nose pliers worked great to hold it in place while regular pliers in the other hand was used to turn the shaft.

Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

removed inner door panel. tested ythe Wax motor that operates the soap dispenser latch. It tested OK so I removed dispenser assembly. replaced the worn plastic parts and reinstalled the inner door panel.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

It was difficult to use the guide provided online to determine what position to place the spring in. Finally I realized that the spring had to be placed with the tip that sticks out against the wall of the dishwasher to make the spring action work. The long and short pins were not a problem. How to place the spring was the main problem, but I finally figured it out. I did not need any special tools to accomplish this. I just used a kitchen knife to push the short pin into place.

I used a torx driver to remove the seven screws holding the inside door panel in place. Flipping it over exposed the dispenser mechanism. There were two hex nut screws holding the whole assembly in place and two wires attached to the wax motor. As an afterthought I had ordered the sealing grommet for the latch, and as it turned out, the main problem with the sticking latch was that the grommet had worn out and allowed the hard soapy water to leak into the slider assembly and build up a hard crusty residue that had helped to ware out the old wax motor. After completely disassembling all of the parts, I scrubbed the residue out of the housing, replaced the slider, latch, spring, and grommet. Next I snapped the new wax motor into place and connected the two wires. The whole thing went back in place and the two hex screws went back to hold it all together. Finally, the seven torx screws went back to put the door back together. The whole repair went without a hitch.

I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.

This is the second time I've purchased parts from PartSelect.com. Actually called Lowe's parts hotline and got disconnected three times. Went online with PartSelect.com and purchased the items within 5 minutes. Parts arrived within 2 days. Will definitely be purchasing parts from PartSelect.com again when needed!!!

Removed the inner door panel-Removed the black cowling covering the timer and wires.
Removed the swicth assembly and installed new part.
Reassembled dishwasher.

I checked the operation of the two switches. One switch did not click, when button was pushed, as cleanly as the other. There was a bit of delay and play in the button when depressed, even sticking a bit.