DWU8260BAX Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Took out about 7 torx screws to remove the inner door liner. Discovered evidence of leak coming from the sop dispenser latch, and noticed the grommet had turned soft and was torn. The grommet is only about 1" square. Used nut driver to remove two screws to remove latch assembly. Slipped old grommet off and put new one on, and reattached the latch. The foam seal at the bottom of the door looked worn, so we replaced it with weatherstripping from home improvement store. The main door seal was brittle, so we replaced it too - just grab an end and pull the old one out. The new one was installed by starting at one end and we just pushed it in place. We used a nut-driver to push it in - we were afraid a screwdriver might damage it. The new door seal required us to latch the door to get it to stay closed the fist couple of days, but now it has loosened up a bit and works as expected. And NO MORE LEAKS. Cost is much less than a new unit!

I opened the end stop of the rack, replaced the roller, and put the end stop back on. I can't believe I paid the repairman the last time $125????? An he put in a regular screw that rusted and broke the roller. Took me 3 minutes! Thanks

I ordered two clips just in case. Turns out I needed both of them. Since I hadn't seen the adjustable tines installed, it took some time to figure out how to put the assembly together.

For some reason I had the dishwasher for 7 years before it occurred to me to order the replacement parts. It's much more efficient to use with the adjustable tines properly installed as I can load approximately 25% more plates than before.

I ordered a new replacement basket. The new one is a little different but it fits in the same place and takes up the same amount of room in the dishwasher. It looks very nice too.

After dissassembling the unit to discover the leakage source I determined that it would do best to replace the top three contributors to the problem as listed by you. Disassembly, parts replacement and reassembly was straight forward and a few hints garnered from your good instructions and assembly blow-up drawings made the job simple with the most difficult task being the removal of the adhesive foam gasket at the bottom of the door's interior. After scraping as much of the deteriorated foam away as possible with a plastic scraper I used some of my wife's nail polisher remover and a clean-up rag (being careful not to get the remover on plastic parts)and soon I had the adhesion area surface clean and ready to receive the new seal. With close attention to clean up of residues left behind from detergent and water and care taken with part installation and reassembly it no longer leaks and I hope to get another 10-15 years of leak free operation out of the dishwasher

I watched the installlation video found on the wedsite and followed his directions.

unwrapped wheels ,pulled out drawer and easily put on new wheels...as we live way out in the boonies it was great to be able to order parts and have them delivered so fast...easy to fix....

It took awhile to figure out how to install the peg clips; I still have my manual, but there is no diagram or picture to show how they are installed (and not on the internet either - not even Amana's site), but I figured it out... so here are the instructions I have created.

On the rear part of the lower rack, you will notice that there is a row of larger spaces between the bars; we are only concerned with the 3 farthest right spaces & the 6 bars that create them.

Install both clips with the ‘flange’ that wraps around the bar inside the square; this will position the clamps that hold the clip in place on the outside edge of the bar.

Place one clip on the far right bottom bar; place another clip on the left hand side of the 3rd space (4th bar from the bar the other clip was attached to on the right).

There are small ‘legs’ that protrude from the folding tines on one end of each; place the tines so that the 2 large tines on both are on the outside, the 4 straight tines are on the inside of the squares when they are folded down, which will put the little ‘legs’ down by the far left square.

Snap the tines into the small clamps on the ends of the clips, so that the loops on the ends will rotate up into the larger clamps when the straight tines are folded down, which will hold them in place.

My dishwasher was leaking a small amount and it seemed to be happening during the last half of the cycle. The insulation at the bottom of the door was wet but not directly under the dishwasher by the motor etc. I tried the door gasket which was a simple 2 minute job but that didn't solve the issue. I took apart the door by removing the seven torx head screws on the inside (don't worry about the metal pieces on the sides with the phillips screws). I could see some white powdery build up and watermarks coming from the soap dispenser area. I thought maybe there was crack in the door. But after taking out the solonoid (it just snaps in and out) I could see light around the little latch that holds the soap dispenser door shut. I tried a bit of caulking but it just fell out after a day or so. Then I found the little grommet on PartsSelect.com. You have to take off a white plastic cover that covers the door latch mechanism - it snaps in and out on one point. A couple screws hold the plastic assembly in place. You can just remove the whole assembly, it doesn't need to be taken apart. Remove the old grey gasket around the latch and put the new one over the latch. It's more like a "boot" like around a shift lever in a car. Put the assembly back in with the latch going through the hole. Make sure the gasket covers the hole. Tighten the screws down, not so much as to tear the gasket but enough to be snug against it. Snap the white cover back on. Snap the solonoid back in place. Put the door back in place. Put the seven screws back in. You're all set - no leaks. The key to troubleshooting was that it started leaking during the rinse cycle after the soap dispenser latch had flipped up exposing the worn boot around the latch.

There was no repair to be done. Just replaced the defective basket with the new one.
I got the part two days after ordering it. Great service.

It was so easy to find the right part on the PartsSelect website. I just had to enter the manufacturer (Maytag) and model number and up popped skematics of all the parts available. I just clicked on the drawing of the basket and placed the order. It took less that 5 minutes. The part arrived 4 days later as promised. The repair took even less time than teh ordering. I simply took the old basket out and dropped in the new one.

I'm just happy to know there is a place that has such a user friendly website and stocks so many parts for older appliances. I had my house built in 1992 and several of the appliance are original. Fortunately I always keep the owners manuals for every piece of equipment so the model and serial numbers are readily available.

Using the pliers, my husband pulled out the old gasket to get it started. He then pushed the new gasket in with his fingers and used a screwdriver to press in the ends. That's it. Pretty easy. I ran the dishwasher a couple of hours after he installed it and there were no leaks. Still not leaking. Seems a bit quieter since the seal
is better.

I was secretly hoping for a new dishwasher eventually. But it makes much more sense to shell out $43 for the gasket rather than spend the $600 or better for a new dishwasher!

I found the website very easy to use as well. Everything shipped quickly and there were no problems at all. I will bookmark this in favorites should I need it again!

remove the eight screws that hold the inside door cover to gain access to the door switch.
remove the four wire conections and replace with new new switch

I originally thought the door gasket was leaking so I went to partselect on line to order the gasket. After seeing the repair story results, I also decided to order the soap dispenser grommet also. I first relaced the door gasket as that takes about 5 minutes (take the easy way first right,) I was wrong as it still leaked. I then took the 7 torx head screws off from the door and the inside section just lifts off exposing the underside and the real problem. The soap latch had been leaking and was obvious from the dried soap/water trail. You have to remove two small screws and the whole unit comes out very simply. I took the extra time to clean off the build up of soap and hard water before replacing the seal and remounting the soap dispensing latch assembly. Ran another load and no more leaks! Thanks for the advise and the really simple but accurate way to order parts. I will use this site if I ever need any other parts. Very helpful and quick deliver as well as reasonably priced.

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.