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DWSR483EG3WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DWSR483EG3WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DWSR483EG3WW
16-30 of 973
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Timer Knob Felt Stripped, No Cycle

  • Customer: ROBERT from MEDFORD LAKES, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 88 of 148 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced timer switch, stem was stripped. Also found all 4 knobs cracked, which surprised me. . Unit only 2 years old, replaced them also. All repair done from top, removed top then control panel, popped knobs off, replced them. Working good now.

Dryer Wouldn't Start

  • Customer: Barbara from Goodrich, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 69 of 101 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dryer. Removed knobs and display panel. Removed bad start switch. This was a bit tricky for a novice. Had to do a bit of twisting. Once the new part was installed, I screwed in the display panel. The dryer worked, but I discovered that the part wasn't securely in place. It took three tries before I finally figured out how to secure the part. Now, everytime I start my dryer, I sing "I am Woman, Hear me Roar!" Woo Hoo!!! Sounds like a little thing to all you Do-It-Yourselfers out there, but to me, this really empowered me. Hmmm, what's next? Maybe the edge of the garage door??? See Ya!

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Joshua from Dallas, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 66 of 97 people found this instruction helpful
The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

belt broken, pulley worn out

  • Customer: Anthony from Mpls, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 63 of 94 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled

squeaky dryer for a week or two

  • Customer: warren from Flint, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 48 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas

Second I opened the door and unscrewed the two screws that go up into the top panel and hold it in place (you will need to get down and look under the top of the door jam to see the screws).

Third I lifted the front of the top enough to remove the two screws holding the front panel on (Use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one you do not want to lose the screws taking them out or putting them back in)

Fourth positioned a chair to lean front panel against so it would not fall over or strain the electrical wires that run to the switch in the door (slide the front panel off slowly supporting the drum with your hand so it doe not drop hard on the motor wires or burners)

Sixth determined the parts I needed and ordered parts from pars select and got them in two days

Seventh when new parts arrived I unclipped the old DRUM BEARING removed the felt gasket, put the felt in the new Drum bearing and clipped it in place

Eighth clipped in the 2 new Dryer Drum Slides and 2new SLIDE WH slides

Ninth Vacuumed out dryer and vent pipe completely

Tenth reassembled dryer being careful to make sure drum was properly aligned as I put the front panel in place and the belt was in the proper place on drum and all the screws were back in place.

Ninth turned gas back on and plugged in dryer

Ten turned on dryer to test squeak was gone

Hints as soon as you hear a squeak look into it and you will probably not have to replace the DRUM BEARING. But if any of the Slides are bad replace them all. Check your belt and felt gaskets to see if they are in good shape. If everything up front is in good shape and it is not the motor squeaking it could be the back drum bearing. Take your time keep your old dryer running for a few more years and save the $40 dollar service call. Do not forget to clean out all the old lint and dust out of your dryer and vent pipes not only will you reduce the risk of fire you will be allowing air to pass through the dryer more easily drying your clothes in shorter time.

Dryer would squeal when first starting and then gradually became very noisey.

  • Customer: Gene from Kutztown, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 64 of 103 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was done as follows:

1. Removed the door
2. Removed the two screws securing the top panel then removed the panel.
3. Removed the two screws securing the front panel then removed the panel.
4. Removed the screws securing the left side panel then removed side panel and the two leveling feet.
5. Tipped dryer over on its back (you will want to protect your floor, the four screws that attach the heater unit protrude through the back).
6. Disengaged the belt tensioner and removed the belt and the drum.
7. Removed the three Torx screws securing the drum bearing to the drum and discarded old bearing.
8. Removed the four screws securing the bearing retainer to the heater unit.
9. Removed the four screws securing the heater unit and two sensor wires.
10. Lifted heater unit just high enough to remove bearing retainer. Discarded bearing retainer.

The new drum bearing kit is supplied with self tapping screws. I installed the screws into the bearing parts to tap the holes and then removed them prior to assembly.

11. Installed new bearing retainer to back of heater unit using the supplied screws. Install the four screws by hand, finger tight.
12. Re-attached heater unit and tighten screws.
13. Re-attached sensor wires.
14. Tightened the four bearing retainer screws.
15. Attached new drum bearing to drum using the three supplied Torx screws. I used tape to hold everything together while installing the screws.
Tightened the Torxscrews.

Next I used a vacuum to remove all the lint from inside the dryer. I also used a small plastic putty knife to remove the caked on lint on the impeller blades.

16. Inserted drum bearing into bearing retainer.
17. Installed drum belt and belt tensioner.
18. Installed left side panel and feet.
19. Replaced the two grey and two white slide bearings on the front panel. They just slip onto a small post and slide into a slot.
20. Installed front panel. (Rotate drum to help with installation)
21. Installed top panel and door


dryer door wont stay shut

  • Customer: robert from mount joy, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 57 of 86 people found this instruction helpful
pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.

Dryer Was Making A Lot Of Noise While Running

  • Customer: Tracy from Winston Salem, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 37 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered parts based off other peoples findings. I took the top and front off the dryer. I found the drum bearing(really only a plastic bracket. The slide were completely worn and the drum was wearing into the plastic drum bearing. I popped the old drum bearing out and put the new on in. There are actually 2 sets of slides (4 total). I only bought 2. I reused two of the existing slides. I put the unit back together and it was a lot quieter. I need to order more of the slides. They are only a couple dollars a piece and take most of the beating. I should've but didn't get the pasking or gasket. It was broken. I think it'll be fine though.

The Dryer would not start

  • Customer: David from Curtice, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 55 of 92 people found this instruction helpful
Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.

dryer wasn't getting hot

  • Customer: edward from Sunnyvale, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 49 of 76 people found this instruction helpful
1. removed two screws to take off top.
2. removed two screws to take off front.
3. Took belt off pulley and removed drum.
4. inspected old heating element at back of dryer - saw broken wire
5. replaced heating element (round w/ heating coil)
6. Re-assembled dryer

Helpful hints:
1. mark down or take pictures of all wires before removal - easy to mix them up
2. when you re-attach drum-belt, it should be taught. Comes straight down wall around metal pulley and then forms an "S" as it wraps around plastic pulley on way up. To re-attach, stick both arms into dryer - one to pull plastic-pulley and other to attach belt.

Noise at drum

  • Customer: William from Sewell, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 37 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
1 Unplug power cord. 2 Remove top and front panels. 3 Remove old bearing, slides and bulb. 4 Install new bearing slides and bulb. Reinstall front and top panels. 5 Restore power and test. Time to repair 25 minutes. Very satisfied with the parts and the time to receive them, very good parts service. Will definately use this service in the future and will highly recommend this company.

worn out drum bearing(squeaky)

  • Customer: Warren from Ballston Lake, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 41 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.

dryer cylinder wouldn't turn

  • Customer: Christopher from Miami, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 37 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
Pryed off the top with a flat head screwdriver and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel to the sides. Then lifted the front panel off of the bottom brackets. Belt fit perfectly and followed the provided instructions to loop it around the motor and pulley. PartSelect got the part to me within a couple of days and the repair was a snap.

Dryer wouldn't run at all

  • Customer: Julie from Delmar, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
First I figured out it was the start switch, I heard it make an electrical zap noise when I turned it and then the dryer didn't start. Once I had the part I simply removed the back from the dryer with a screwdriver (5 phillips head screws and 1 flat head). Then I twisted the old switch and it popped right out. Then I unhooked the wires and rehooked them to the new switch. Then I twisted the new switch into place, tested the dryer - IT WORKED! After that I just replaced the back cover and I was done. It was so quick! I am a 25 year old single mother with a 21 month and 4 month old. If I can do it on my own anyone can!

Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather

  • Customer: Gary from Spring Hill, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 35 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.

Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.

I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."

Yeah, right.

I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.

There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.

I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.

A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.

With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.

At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.

This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).

Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.

You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.

Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.

45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.

Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
All Instructions for the DWSR483EG3WW
16-30 of 973