DW860B Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

First I disconnected the dishwasher electric, water supply and discharge hoses. I then pulled the dishwasher out. After opening the door, I removed the retainer clip holding the upper wash arm, then the nut holding the top shower hose in place. Close the door and lean the dishwasher on its side to get at the underside where the other end of the hose is. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the top shower hose. Reassemble everything in reverse order. In hindsight, I didn't need to buy the new hose clamp or the tub top washer (I reused the originals). Good luck!

I removed the seven screws from the back panel of the door (special tool) and seperated the back panel from the front. My wife held the back up and I removed the two wax motors (detergent cup and rinse aid), which were clipped in place. I had turned off power to the dishwasher, so I simply unplugged each wax motor from the wiring harness, plugged the wax motors in and clipped them in place, making sure that the wiring harness was put back in the same place. Then I put the back panel back on the door, turned the power on and tested the repair. The dishwasher worked perfectly. Thanks to PartSelect for helping me solve the problem. The parts arrived in two days!

We simply removed the old gasket which was corroded, cleaned up the hard water buildup, and popped the new gasket into place. The problem was fixed! No more leak!

I took out both wax motors - tried switching the motors on the rinse dispenser and soap dispenser but they were both dead - new motors from partselect arrived fast - simple installation if you have the torx screwdriver for the door inner panel.

very easy to replace! !

Remove the retaining screws holding the inner door panel in place. Then lift the panel away,make sure you unplug the wiring connector there noting the way it was plugged in.

Then remove the screws holding the stainless trim panel in place over the latch assembly area. Unscrew the screw retaining the latch/switch assembly, unplug the connectors on each side of the two switches,assemble the new latch/switch assembly and install ! !

Removed two lower panels using nutdriver. Ran washer through a rinse cycle, to determine for sure where leak was coming from (under door on left). Examined the door gasket and observed buildup of lime deposits and a general depression of the gasket through years of use, especially in lower portions. Removed the old gasket observing how installed. Cleaned out groove with Lime-away and toothbrush. Washed clean using water in a squirt bottle. Dried things out using paper towels, and then pressed new gasket into place, starting at lower left. Readjusted the gasket to fit precisely end to end. Shut door and ran a drip free load.

I first changed the dispenser door latch grommet, which was very eazy except for the left side nut screw which was a little awkwaed to get to with the nut driver. Not a big problem but difficult enough that i stripped the threads (plastic) and had to get a larger screw which is working fine so far. Since the grommet didn't stop the leaking although it was obvious it was leaking from the soap trail. I ordered the gasket and got it very promptly put it on and guess what. Still leaked some. I discovered when they installed the dishwasher the door appeared to be warped. To fix this there are two door tension springs under the bottom panel. By adjusting these with a log screw driver problem finally solved.
It is good to have not only a great place to get parts but the idea's from others are terrific. Although this washer is 15 years old it looks new and now acts new. Thanks so much for good service and advise.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Lifted out the old rack and set in the new one. The raised portion of the new rack was not high enough to clear the lower spray tower, so I adjusted the back wheel "axles" downward about 3/8" with pliers, which raised the rear of the rack enough to clear the tower.

Even though there was plenty of water pressure from the pump, the lower arm would not spin. I could move it with my hand but there was too much friction for it to spin. Turns out an item named seal ring[38] (I would call it a slip ring) had become dislodged somehow at the interface between the rotating parts and the stationary parts but I did not learn that until I was able to disassemble it. I could see from the diagram that there were threads at the top of the SPRAY ARM SUPPORT[39] that engaged with the threads in the CENTER SPRAY NOZZLE EXTENSION[33] so I held the arm and tried to unscrew [33]. CRACK! The 4 thin plastic arms in [39] snapped right off. I then disassembled and found the dislodged seal ring[38]. I concluded that I would never have been able to disassemble without breaking [39] due to the calcium in the threads (even with repeated applications of vinegar or lime away): the plastic arms are just too wimpy. But the price of a new [39] was a bargain, I was amazed. Came in 2 days, I re-assembled, now the spray arm spins freely and the dishwasher works again. I will try to remember to use vinegar periodically incase the slip ring dislodges again. This has been a great dishwasher otherwise IMHO( and a bargain price).

Removed the old gasket, without tools, and fit the new gasket into the space, making sure it was in the groove correctly all around, job done, works great. The ordering of the gasket on this site was easy and the shipping time was amazing, one day. Would use this company again, and recommend to anyone needing parts that wants to do repairs themself. I am sure saved a whole lot over hiring someone, and got the job done sooner also.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.