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DW80F600UTS
DW80F600UTS (AA-0000) Samsung Dishwasher - Overview
Sections of the DW80F600UTS
[Viewing 7 of 7]
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Lower Rack Roller with Mounting Clip
PartSelect #: PS4222532
Manufacturer #: DD66-00023A
$19.33
In Stock
Dishwasher Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12394435
Manufacturer #: DD81-02132A
This door switch is for dishwashers.
The door switch detects when the door is closed so the dishwasher can start.
Unplug the dishwasher or shut off the house circuit breaker before installing th...
$65.41
In Stock
Drain Check Valve
PartSelect #: PS4222545
Manufacturer #: DD66-00045A
This part is the replacement drain check valve for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1-1/4 inches by 1-1/4 inches. The round section of the check valve is approximately...
$28.60
In Stock
Dishwasher Drain Hose
PartSelect #: PS12085661
Manufacturer #: DD81-02331A
This drain hose is 80" long. The drain hose carries drain water from the dishwasher drain pump to the kitchen sink drain.
A/S-DRAIN HOSE OUT;ODM, DW3000MM
$58.77
In Stock
Dishwasher Chopper Blade
PartSelect #: PS4222578
Manufacturer #: DD70-01003A
The chopper blade spins to chop up the leftover food particles in the sump area.
$34.76
On Order
Assembly-SENSOR LEAK;DMT800,
PartSelect #: PS4222735
Manufacturer #: DD94-01062A
This is a leak sensor designed for use with a range of Samsung dishwashers. This sensor is designed to detect if water begins leaking from the water supply. If/when it detects a leak, it stops the wat...
$39.35
In Stock
Questions And Answers for DW80F600UTS
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Pat
November 28, 2019
Lots of sediment left on plates & glasses after washing them in this machine. Is there a filter or something i am not aware of that i need to change/clean/monitor? Thanks!
For model number DW80F600UTS
Hello Pat, thank you for your question. There are a few parts we would recommend checking/replacing. First remove the spray arms and clean them. There is a filter under the lower spray arm that can be removed and cleaned out. Run a cycle of dishwasher cleaner, or a solution like vinegar and water to clean the hoses and spray parts. If this doesn't fix the issue, we would recommend checking the water level, circulation pump and dispenser. I hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the DW80F600UTS
[Viewing 3 of 3]Door latch failure
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Not draining
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Leaking
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The sump seal began to seep causing the leak detector to lock it out of service (which is good)
The install definitely takes a bit more than the video I watched but in the end all was fine. The electrical and hose connections are nothing but getting the three screws and retainers isn't as easy as shown in the video I watched and getting them back in is even worse. My hands aren't small but they're not huge either. You'll need multip
... Read more
le phillips head screwdrivers. All a #2 head, with one stubby, one about 6" and one long one with about 8" or more of shaft on the screwdriver to remove the screws. Also take pictures if possible with your phone for reconnecting all your wiring harnesses will prove helpful. The only other difficult part of doing it by yourself is compressing the new sump seal enough to get the three nylon retainer clips back into place. There is really need or room for two people on any part of this other than at that point. If you could have somebody push down on the pump unit from inside while you install the retainers it would make it so much easier but I managed. Other than that not a big deal. Good luck!
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Parts Used:
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Dale from Watertown, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 6 people
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Door latch and switch broke. Door would not close and engage
Repair was fairly simple. Remove torx screws making sure that front control panel does not separate too much from door panel. Not a big deal if it does, just a little more work when putting it back together. Replacing broken part is plug and play. Reseat door panel and control panel and secure with previously removed torx screws. I’ve pro
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bably made it sound a bit more complicated than is really is.
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Parts Used:
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Rehan from ELKRIDGE, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 4 people
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Dishwasher door seal leaking.
1. I always record the model number and serial number of every appliance I buy. Saves me aggravation later. For DIY-repair people, this is the most important, universal tip I can give.
2. With the model number in hand, I went to partselect.com and bought a new seal. For things like this, I actively avoid online superstores whose name ... Read more s sound like a really large river since I've received crappy parts from countries who names rhyme with "mynah" and the parts don't fit or I'm replacing them again in another year. Partselect items fit and work.
3. I put the new seal in a bowl of very warm water to make it more flexible. Since its a washer seal, I know it doesn't matter if it gets wet.
4. I put put a drop cloth (could use a sheet of cardboard from an old appliance box, or something similar) on the floor to cut down on the drippy mess. There's always a few drips.
5. I took several close-up pictures of the old seal while it's still in the appliance. Cell phones make this easy -- better to have a record of how it goes together. I do the same every time I'm disassembling appliances, but in this case the the door seal is right inside the the door, so I don't need many photos. But close-up photos of the ends will show how much overhang to expect during the replacement.
6. I partially pulled out the old seal. Took one more photo where it's partially pulled out to make sure I understand the orientation when I put it back in. Then finished pulling it out and set it aside.
7. Cleaned out the groove where the old seal was, and cleaned out the door edges well so the new seal can fit right. Old toothbrushes (don't throw them out, they're way too useful) and cotton swabs to clean any gunk out of crevices.
8. On this model, the door latch is in the center of the washer, so that's where the middle of the new seal goes.
9 Take the seal out of the water, shake off excess water, and stretch istlightly to help straighten it. Hold the ends of the seal together. where it folds in half is the midpoint. Grab it by that midpoint.
10, Press the seal into the groove starting with the midpoint directly below the latch so it will be even length from left to right.
11. Continued pressing the seal into place down the sides. Observe that if I've done this correctly, each end overhangs onto the bottom of the tub by approximately the same amount.
12. Using the HANDLE, and NOT the blade of a butter knife, pressed the seal into the groove firmly as all points along the seal. DO NOT use anything sharp to this step, you don't want to nick the seal. DID NOT **slide** the butter knife along, simply pressed it in repeatedly, moved a half-inch down the seal, and repeated. The goal is to NOT stretch the seal, but simply to make sure its fully in the groove.
13. Checked the dishwasher for anything out of place. Don't skip this step -- you have the appliance open and your tools out -- best time for preventative maintenance. Also a good time to verify that the dishwasher is properly leveled -- this influences leaks as well.
14. On this model, there is a vent in the door that lets air out when the washer fills, and lets air in when it empties. This was absolutely "gunked up" with soap sludge, and I spent more time cleaning the vent than I did in replacing the seal. But without a properly-functioning vent, pressure builds up inside the tub during filling, and water can be pushed out an otherwise-mediocre seal. I wonder if I had caught that first if I could have avoided replacing the seal.
15. Ran the washer on several "quick" cycles to ensure no leaks.
16. Put everything back together. Put away the tools. Went to the "toy store" and bought myself a new tool (an oscillating toolkit this time) as a reward for a job well done. Besides, the saw will get used when I re-tile the main bath, which I've been putting off.
2. With the model number in hand, I went to partselect.com and bought a new seal. For things like this, I actively avoid online superstores whose name ... Read more s sound like a really large river since I've received crappy parts from countries who names rhyme with "mynah" and the parts don't fit or I'm replacing them again in another year. Partselect items fit and work.
3. I put the new seal in a bowl of very warm water to make it more flexible. Since its a washer seal, I know it doesn't matter if it gets wet.
4. I put put a drop cloth (could use a sheet of cardboard from an old appliance box, or something similar) on the floor to cut down on the drippy mess. There's always a few drips.
5. I took several close-up pictures of the old seal while it's still in the appliance. Cell phones make this easy -- better to have a record of how it goes together. I do the same every time I'm disassembling appliances, but in this case the the door seal is right inside the the door, so I don't need many photos. But close-up photos of the ends will show how much overhang to expect during the replacement.
6. I partially pulled out the old seal. Took one more photo where it's partially pulled out to make sure I understand the orientation when I put it back in. Then finished pulling it out and set it aside.
7. Cleaned out the groove where the old seal was, and cleaned out the door edges well so the new seal can fit right. Old toothbrushes (don't throw them out, they're way too useful) and cotton swabs to clean any gunk out of crevices.
8. On this model, the door latch is in the center of the washer, so that's where the middle of the new seal goes.
9 Take the seal out of the water, shake off excess water, and stretch istlightly to help straighten it. Hold the ends of the seal together. where it folds in half is the midpoint. Grab it by that midpoint.
10, Press the seal into the groove starting with the midpoint directly below the latch so it will be even length from left to right.
11. Continued pressing the seal into place down the sides. Observe that if I've done this correctly, each end overhangs onto the bottom of the tub by approximately the same amount.
12. Using the HANDLE, and NOT the blade of a butter knife, pressed the seal into the groove firmly as all points along the seal. DO NOT use anything sharp to this step, you don't want to nick the seal. DID NOT **slide** the butter knife along, simply pressed it in repeatedly, moved a half-inch down the seal, and repeated. The goal is to NOT stretch the seal, but simply to make sure its fully in the groove.
13. Checked the dishwasher for anything out of place. Don't skip this step -- you have the appliance open and your tools out -- best time for preventative maintenance. Also a good time to verify that the dishwasher is properly leveled -- this influences leaks as well.
14. On this model, there is a vent in the door that lets air out when the washer fills, and lets air in when it empties. This was absolutely "gunked up" with soap sludge, and I spent more time cleaning the vent than I did in replacing the seal. But without a properly-functioning vent, pressure builds up inside the tub during filling, and water can be pushed out an otherwise-mediocre seal. I wonder if I had caught that first if I could have avoided replacing the seal.
15. Ran the washer on several "quick" cycles to ensure no leaks.
16. Put everything back together. Put away the tools. Went to the "toy store" and bought myself a new tool (an oscillating toolkit this time) as a reward for a job well done. Besides, the saw will get used when I re-tile the main bath, which I've been putting off.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
James from BALLSTON LAKE, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
3 of 7 people
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