DW730A Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Lifted out the old rack and set in the new one. The raised portion of the new rack was not high enough to clear the lower spray tower, so I adjusted the back wheel "axles" downward about 3/8" with pliers, which raised the rear of the rack enough to clear the tower.

Even though there was plenty of water pressure from the pump, the lower arm would not spin. I could move it with my hand but there was too much friction for it to spin. Turns out an item named seal ring[38] (I would call it a slip ring) had become dislodged somehow at the interface between the rotating parts and the stationary parts but I did not learn that until I was able to disassemble it. I could see from the diagram that there were threads at the top of the SPRAY ARM SUPPORT[39] that engaged with the threads in the CENTER SPRAY NOZZLE EXTENSION[33] so I held the arm and tried to unscrew [33]. CRACK! The 4 thin plastic arms in [39] snapped right off. I then disassembled and found the dislodged seal ring[38]. I concluded that I would never have been able to disassemble without breaking [39] due to the calcium in the threads (even with repeated applications of vinegar or lime away): the plastic arms are just too wimpy. But the price of a new [39] was a bargain, I was amazed. Came in 2 days, I re-assembled, now the spray arm spins freely and the dishwasher works again. I will try to remember to use vinegar periodically incase the slip ring dislodges again. This has been a great dishwasher otherwise IMHO( and a bargain price).

Removed the old gasket, without tools, and fit the new gasket into the space, making sure it was in the groove correctly all around, job done, works great. The ordering of the gasket on this site was easy and the shipping time was amazing, one day. Would use this company again, and recommend to anyone needing parts that wants to do repairs themself. I am sure saved a whole lot over hiring someone, and got the job done sooner also.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

1- turn power off. 2- remove 7 screws to take door apart 3- remove 2 screws to take dispenser out. 4- i unhooked electic plug from it. 5- replace grommet and all back together. not bad to be 72 years old.

1) Remove the lower dish rack.
2) Use towel to soak up any water in the dishwasher.
3) Remove the bottom plate on the dishwasher front.
4) Remove clamp from around the discharge hose. Some water will drain out so have towel handy.
5) Dishwasher will need to be pulled out from its built-in area in order to feed the old discharge hose out and the new one in. MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ENOUGH PLAY IN THE ELECTRICAL WIRES AND THE INPUT WATER LINE TO THE DISHWASHER TO ALLOW IT TO BE PULLED OUT.
6) Loosen, all the way, the white plastic locking arm that clamps the pump housing. It clamps on a white corrugated plastic piece.
7) Remove the spindle arm inside the washer by unscrewing the "tower" piece.
8) Remove the screws from the pump housing on the inside of the washer.
9) Lift the pump housing carefully and remove the rubber gasket from around the housing. There is enough play to remove the gasket and put the new one on.
10) Clean the area around the housing so that the new gasket seats properly.
11) The new gasket will have to be installed before re-installing the discharge hose.
12) Re-install screws in pump housing.
13) Re-install the spindle arm.
14) Tighten the white plastic locking arm underneath the washer that locks down the pump housing.
15) The new discharge hose can now be reconnected between the sink drain and the dishwasher.
16) Dishwasher can now be put back into its place.
17) Before closing up the bottom plate of the dishwasher, it should be run and checked for leaks before finally closing up. My advice - let it stand overnight before checking for leaks. after running.

My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

Our dishwasher got to the point where it would not complete a wash cycle. I found that by jiggling the door latch, the dishwasher would whir back to life. For awhile, if I put a clothespin on the door latch, somehow enough pressure would be put on the switch to keep the dishwasher going. Finally, the dishwasher refused to cooperate...so I ordered a replacement switch.

The repair was easy. I only had to remove the interior door panel, unscrew the metal bar at the top of the door and underneath the door panel, then remove the black plastic shield. After that, it was just a matter of wiggling the old switch out and wiggling the new switch.

CAUTION: Be very sure that the power to the dishwasher is turned off. I got a scare because I thought the circuit breaker was off, but I had flipped the wrong one and suddenly, with my fingers very close to the bare connectors, the dishwasher came back to life briefly. I ran downstairs and found the correct circuit breaker and all was fine after that.

Take the bottom skirts off of front. Put drain solinoid back in its bore and secure with wire or a rubber band.It will be a chrome cylinder hanging Take the center spray section out and look for the broken lever. Get both pieces out if it split and fell in two. Mine usually crack and stay on the shaft. Pull the circlip off and slide new lever in place and replace circlip. Re-assemble center section. If you are going to keep the dishwasher buy extra levers. I buy them 2 at a time and try to keep a spare.

removed spray head, pulled motor/pump assembly. took apart impeller housing and then removed motor and pulled impeller off its shaft, the most difficult part was actually pulling off impeller from the splined shaft. I actually broke old impeller in the process. The good thing is that the new seal came assembled with new impeller so that was not a problem. After re-assembling everything it worked fine and still works for a week since repair.

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!