DU4J Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

This was really easy. I just took out the two screws securing the unit to the counter top and slid it out about 6 inches. Broken plastic spring linkage was obvious and easily accessible. I didn't know there was one on each side, I would probably have went ahead and ordered both and replaced them at the same time.

Everything is straight forward with the following two exceptions; The threads that hold the motor fan to the impeller are left hand, and it takes a special tool to remove the top rotating assembly. It took about 4 hours to figure out what to do, and make the tool . I put it back together in about 20 minutes.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

Turned off power. Removed lower, two panels. Turned power back on and started dishwasher. Saw leak from 7' drain hose. Turned off power, disconnected hose, ordered new hose, installed on washer and routed back to garbage disposal. Turned on power, checked for leaks (none) and replaced 2 front, lower panels.

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

The problem is a worn seal ring. That ring is inside the lower spray arm's spray nozzle support assembly. The wash arm spins on that assembly.

I unscrewed the lower spray nozzle popup, from the wash arm support. That part, from which the extending spray nozzle rotator pops out, simply unscrews, by hand, from the wash arm support. Then I could lift off the wash arm itself to get it out of the way for the next step.

With the wash arm removed, I could then gently pry off the flat filter cover which was underneath the wash arm (the filter cover is simply clipped on. Use a screwdriver).

Now, reaching inside where the that popup spray nozzle was screwed on, you can see and/or feel a tall skinny plastic piece in the center of it, which actually screws that wash arm support onto, well, the rest of the dishwasher.

With that "screw" removed by hand, I removed the wash arm support.

Inside that wash arm support the old ring seal can be removed and the new one inserted.

Simply reverse the process to re-assemble.

Note that it's hard to determine where, exactly, to put that ring seal, inside the wash arm support. But it seemed to me it didn't really matter as long as it was just in there.

I removed lower cover panel. Removed two wires. (one on each end of the element. Removed two nuts on the element. Took out old part. Put new part in and reversed procedure. Works fine now.

Removed the top rack and unscrewed the six screws involved on the rack adjuster. (Take note on how you took the thumb adjuster on top off for easier reassembly) Replace assembly on rack and slide rack back into dish washer. Kudos to PartSelect for getting my part here in less than 24 hours on a normal delivery charge.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled.
Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.

Read the Diagram on Parts Select Site and it only took me about 15 Minutes to disassamble and install the New Parts. Very Easy once I read the Schematic on the site.

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.

Initially thought this issue was the dishwasher door gasket, but after reading post on this site about door latch grommet, removed 7 "hex screws" pulled inside of dishwasher door away and traced water from leak back to soap dispenser latch/grommet area so instead of ordering door gasket ordered door latch and grommet. Replaced grommet only (in addition to 7 "hex screws" had to remove 2 additional screws to get to it) which took some maneuvering. Re-aligned grommet and latch, inserted and tightened all screws that had been removed. Works great - no more water leaking!