DU2JV Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

The part arrived sooner than I was ready to install! But it only took about 30 mins.(could take less but I like to do extra) I used a cordless drill with a star bit to remove the 7 screws holding on the inside plastic door cover. I unplugged the four electrical plugs so I could take the cover off completely. Once removing the cover I placed the cover on the kitchen counter to work on. I removed the liquid softner dispenser by turning tthe big threaded white plastic gromet on the front side of cover. I checked the big o ring for wear. Before reinstalling the liquid dispenser I placed a bead on 3-M black gasket silicon around the base and placed the o-ring on top of it just to make sure that it won't leak either. (this is installed last) There was quite a bit of the calcium build all over the parts. I cleaned this up with some CLR and a toothbrush, you don't have too but I'm a little picky and do not want to open it up again.
There are 2 little hex head screws holding the latch and associated hardware in place removing them was no problem. remove the old rubber gromet and put the new one on. Make sure the area where the gromet seats is smooth and clean. Now put it all back together and you should have no leaks

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

1) Remove the lower dish rack.
2) Use towel to soak up any water in the dishwasher.
3) Remove the bottom plate on the dishwasher front.
4) Remove clamp from around the discharge hose. Some water will drain out so have towel handy.
5) Dishwasher will need to be pulled out from its built-in area in order to feed the old discharge hose out and the new one in. MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ENOUGH PLAY IN THE ELECTRICAL WIRES AND THE INPUT WATER LINE TO THE DISHWASHER TO ALLOW IT TO BE PULLED OUT.
6) Loosen, all the way, the white plastic locking arm that clamps the pump housing. It clamps on a white corrugated plastic piece.
7) Remove the spindle arm inside the washer by unscrewing the "tower" piece.
8) Remove the screws from the pump housing on the inside of the washer.
9) Lift the pump housing carefully and remove the rubber gasket from around the housing. There is enough play to remove the gasket and put the new one on.
10) Clean the area around the housing so that the new gasket seats properly.
11) The new gasket will have to be installed before re-installing the discharge hose.
12) Re-install screws in pump housing.
13) Re-install the spindle arm.
14) Tighten the white plastic locking arm underneath the washer that locks down the pump housing.
15) The new discharge hose can now be reconnected between the sink drain and the dishwasher.
16) Dishwasher can now be put back into its place.
17) Before closing up the bottom plate of the dishwasher, it should be run and checked for leaks before finally closing up. My advice - let it stand overnight before checking for leaks. after running.

My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

Take the bottom skirts off of front. Put drain solinoid back in its bore and secure with wire or a rubber band.It will be a chrome cylinder hanging Take the center spray section out and look for the broken lever. Get both pieces out if it split and fell in two. Mine usually crack and stay on the shaft. Pull the circlip off and slide new lever in place and replace circlip. Re-assemble center section. If you are going to keep the dishwasher buy extra levers. I buy them 2 at a time and try to keep a spare.

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

removed spray head, pulled motor/pump assembly. took apart impeller housing and then removed motor and pulled impeller off its shaft, the most difficult part was actually pulling off impeller from the splined shaft. I actually broke old impeller in the process. The good thing is that the new seal came assembled with new impeller so that was not a problem. After re-assembling everything it worked fine and still works for a week since repair.

Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remove inner door by removing 7 torx screws. flip inner door up, propping it between the open door and the countertop.

Leave the drying solution reservour in place, remove two screws holding wax motor retainer. remove motor. (You might want to dissassemble door latch mechanism and replace latch seal, which is probably why wax motor failed to begin with. it simply slides over the latch FROM THE INSIDE.) Then reassemble.

I also cleaned up the main inner door seal. after that, the dishwasher leaked pretty good everytime the sprayer arm revolved. It took awhile to figure out I had rubbed off some rubber, although not much, BUT ENOUGH to make it leak.

SIMPLE FIX: Simply pull out seal, TURN IT OVER, so the back is now the front, AND RE-INSERT. No more leak. Saved 42 dollars.

Also: if your washer has two wax motors, (and you don't use drying agent) just swap the drying agent wax motor with defective soap dispenser motor. No cost repair.

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.