DU2J-C Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Took out about 7 torx screws to remove the inner door liner. Discovered evidence of leak coming from the sop dispenser latch, and noticed the grommet had turned soft and was torn. The grommet is only about 1" square. Used nut driver to remove two screws to remove latch assembly. Slipped old grommet off and put new one on, and reattached the latch. The foam seal at the bottom of the door looked worn, so we replaced it with weatherstripping from home improvement store. The main door seal was brittle, so we replaced it too - just grab an end and pull the old one out. The new one was installed by starting at one end and we just pushed it in place. We used a nut-driver to push it in - we were afraid a screwdriver might damage it. The new door seal required us to latch the door to get it to stay closed the fist couple of days, but now it has loosened up a bit and works as expected. And NO MORE LEAKS. Cost is much less than a new unit!

I opened the end stop of the rack, replaced the roller, and put the end stop back on. I can't believe I paid the repairman the last time $125????? An he put in a regular screw that rusted and broke the roller. Took me 3 minutes! Thanks

After dissassembling the unit to discover the leakage source I determined that it would do best to replace the top three contributors to the problem as listed by you. Disassembly, parts replacement and reassembly was straight forward and a few hints garnered from your good instructions and assembly blow-up drawings made the job simple with the most difficult task being the removal of the adhesive foam gasket at the bottom of the door's interior. After scraping as much of the deteriorated foam away as possible with a plastic scraper I used some of my wife's nail polisher remover and a clean-up rag (being careful not to get the remover on plastic parts)and soon I had the adhesion area surface clean and ready to receive the new seal. With close attention to clean up of residues left behind from detergent and water and care taken with part installation and reassembly it no longer leaks and I hope to get another 10-15 years of leak free operation out of the dishwasher

I watched the installlation video found on the wedsite and followed his directions.

Using the pliers, my husband pulled out the old gasket to get it started. He then pushed the new gasket in with his fingers and used a screwdriver to press in the ends. That's it. Pretty easy. I ran the dishwasher a couple of hours after he installed it and there were no leaks. Still not leaking. Seems a bit quieter since the seal
is better.

I was secretly hoping for a new dishwasher eventually. But it makes much more sense to shell out $43 for the gasket rather than spend the $600 or better for a new dishwasher!

I found the website very easy to use as well. Everything shipped quickly and there were no problems at all. I will bookmark this in favorites should I need it again!

remove the eight screws that hold the inside door cover to gain access to the door switch.
remove the four wire conections and replace with new new switch

I originally thought the door gasket was leaking so I went to partselect on line to order the gasket. After seeing the repair story results, I also decided to order the soap dispenser grommet also. I first relaced the door gasket as that takes about 5 minutes (take the easy way first right,) I was wrong as it still leaked. I then took the 7 torx head screws off from the door and the inside section just lifts off exposing the underside and the real problem. The soap latch had been leaking and was obvious from the dried soap/water trail. You have to remove two small screws and the whole unit comes out very simply. I took the extra time to clean off the build up of soap and hard water before replacing the seal and remounting the soap dispensing latch assembly. Ran another load and no more leaks! Thanks for the advise and the really simple but accurate way to order parts. I will use this site if I ever need any other parts. Very helpful and quick deliver as well as reasonably priced.

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Observed the way gasket was installed including slight overhang on each side.
I simply pulled out the old gasket, starting at one end. I then wiped down the area with a dampened rag and pressed in the new gasket exactly the way the old one came out. It is important not to stretch it, just push it into place ending up with the same overhang on both sides.
Total time less than 5 minutes with no tools.

I suspected that the wax motor had gone bad based on reviews I had read. The repair requires a TORX bit to remove seven screws holding the plastic cover on the inside of the door. I sat in a chair with the door resting on my knees and took the screws out. Once open, the two wax motors are under the cover and easily accessible. You simply pull the wax motors out and detach two wire plugs. You should note how the wires are attached. The wire plugs were a little difficult to pull off but with a little effort they came straight off. Once new wax motors were installed, the soap dispenser opened.

I was also using a gel dishwasher detergent and was told that, for some reason, it might have begun to act like glue and this might also have prevented the soap dispenser from opening. I switched to powder and that did not solve the problem leading me to replace the wax motors. The soap dispenser spring seems a little weak so I have continued using powder.

Once I figured out how to get the endcap off the roller track (allow several minutes, because it was designed by some dork), I slipped the old roller off the track, put the new roller on, and clipped it to the rack. Then I put the track cap back on (really easy once you've figured out how to get it off) and it was good as new.

As for how the cap comes off, it's difficult to describe. But it may help you to know that the cap, despite what it looks like at first, is actually surprisingly long and folded on top of itself. Pulling it directly out doesn't work; you have to unfold it before there's any chance of getting it out.

I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.
Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.
Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!

My first diagnosis was that the leak was originating from a worn door seal. The door seal was replaced, but did not correct the problem. The spray bars were inspected for cracks or splits and were found to be sound. I removed the interior cover of the door and traced the water leak back to the dispenser door latch seal. The latch grommet was replaced and the problem was corrected. In order to replace the grommet, the interior door cover screws were removed using a star bit screw driver. Once the door cover was separated from the door, the small motor that operates the door latch mechanism needs to be unclipped from the door cover (leave the wiring harness connected). Use a nut driver with a 1/4" socket to remove the latch mechanism (2 screws). Slide the old rubber grommet over the latch, and install the new rubber grommet. Reassemble the latch mechanism, reversing the previous steps. Done.

first i removed the 2 holding screws fron the underside of the counter then oulled the dishwasher out about a foot. i then removed the side panel that hold the front plate in plase on the right, below this were the screws that held the door hinge assembly on the right. i then proceeded to remove those bolts. and replaced with the new one. replacing the spring and the linkage came next no tools required. i have to say that the diagram when i ordered helped emensly. i am a 45 yr old woman and fixed it by nyself thanks to your ordering diagrams. life is good!!

1. Turned power to the unit off.
2. Used a star bit to remove the 7 screws holding the door panel in place.
3. Handed each to my 2 year-old grand daughter.
4. Removed a 1" switch metal retaining plate and a black plastic cover. Removed one screw holding the switch in place.
5. Gently lifted out the old switch and compared it to the replacement switch.
6. Inserted the two black connectors into the new switch.
7. Removed each of the four wires connected to the old switch and connected each, in-turn, to the new switch. Removed the exterior black handle from the old switch and snapped it into place on the new switch.
8. Put the switch into place, reinstalled the black plastic housing cover and long 1" metal switch retaining panel.
9. Set the door cover in place and let the 2 year-old screw in the 7 retaining screws.
10. Don't have to listen to the wife complain about the dishwasher anymore.