DU20JV Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

The dishwasher is well engineered to perform this work.

Remove the bottom two panels to provide access and visibility to base of pump motor.

Locate plastic pump locking lever and push toward rear of DW to unlock pump from DW.

Inside the DW remove basketsand spray arms. Revove screws holding cover over pump motor and remove cover.

From below raise pump motor and support with block (piece of 2x4 worked well).

insde DW, removre old gasket, clean well around pump and botom of DW, install new gasket.

From below remove block to drop pump motro back into place, and re-tighten locking lever by pull toward you.

re-assemble inside componets, run through a rinse cycle to test for leaks and replace bottom panels.




I

First, the problem was the little rubber gromet on the soap door operator lever. It was not the door gasket. I had to use a torx driver to remove the 6 screws that hold inside door panel on. After separating the inside door panel from the metal door I was able to see the soap door operating mech. I then removed 2 hex head screws from the soap door operator. I was then able to remove the operators plastic lever along with the rubber gasket. I then slid the new rubber gromet over the operator lever and put the mech. back in place. I put a little silcone grease on the plastic slide bar that operates the plastic release lever of the soap door. I then made sure everything worked properly. I then put the inside door panel back on.
No more inside door leakes when the dishwasher is running.

Thanks to repair stories about door leaks on partselect.com I ordered parts for the detergent/rinse dispenser in addition to the door gasket. The installation of the door gasket is really easy, simply remove the old gasket starting at one end. I needed a small screwdriver to get the old gasket end out of its channel, then pulled the entire gasket out. I cleaned the channel with water and simply pushed the new one into the channel, starting at the left bottom and continuing around. It is important not to stretch the gasket and also to have it equal length on both sides of the tub. Total time less than 10 minutes.

The replacement of the detergent grommet requires removal of the inner door panel. I removed the seven torx-head screws along the edge of the plastic panel and lifted the panel away from the outer metal door. There are wires attached to the detergent cup motor. I tried to remove them but found it was easier to simply snap the motor out of it's retaining clip, leaving the wires attached. The inner door panel can now be removed. The detergent/ rinse aid module is removed by taking out two hex-head screws. It lifted away from the door and the grommet is right on the front, surrounding the detergent cup latch. I removed the old grommet, cleaned the residue of old detergent and water hardness from the latch and the backside of the inner door. and placed the new grommet over the latch. I used a little water on the new one to make it slide on easier. I then reattached the module to the inner door. Be sure the grommet is centered in the square hole and evenly tighten the two hex-head screws. Re attach the soap motor by snapping it in place being careful to align its plunger correctly with the soap module. There is a groove in the plunger that fits into the plastic arm of the module. Re assemble the inner door and tighten the torx-head screws evenly. This job took about 30 minutes and completely solved the leak problem.

The broken spring linkage requires partial removal of the dishwasher. First, I turned off the power and water as a precaution. I removed the undercounter philips head screws, removed the lower access panel and kick plate using a nut driver. To access the door spring mechanism, the dishwasher must be pulled out from the cabinet about 10 inches. I had flexible electric and water lines so they didn't need to be disconnected. If the water and electric are rigid, then they have to be disconnected. This may require a professional. The replacement of the door springs and linkages is very easy once the dishwasher is pulled out. Keeping the door closed and locked, simply hook one end of the spring on the linkage, attach the other end of the linkage to the door and attach the other end of the spring to the hole in the dishwasher base where the old spring was attached. It is a good idea to replace both springs and both linkages to keep equal tension on both sides of the door. Slide the dishwasher back to it's original position and replace the undercounter screws and the lower access panels. Total time less than 15 minutes.

had to remove the spray nozle and cover from the bottom of the washer to expose the stem where the lifter mounts. I had to turn the stem slightly to install it, this had to be done from the bottom of the washer and it took an extra set of hands. Once the stem was in the right position the lifter slid right on, I attached the retainer ring and put the othe parts back on. It works as good as new now.

The replacement of the spring linkage was simple - the pulling out and pushing in of the under-the-counter dishwasher was the difficult and time-consuming part. The repair of the part took less than a minute.

The actual repair -
1. Hook the linkage to the dishwasher door
2. Hook the spring to the dishwasher base
3. Hook the spring to the linkage.

Getting the dishwasher out to be able to make the repair involved:
1. Unscrewing the base panel (6 screws had to be removed)
2. Unscrewing the dishwasher from the counter (two screws)
3. Turning off the water supply
4. Disconnecting the inline water supply from the dishwasher.

Once the part was replaced, I had to return the dishwasher to its original position, which meant performing the four steps (in reverse) used to pull out the dishwasher.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

Removed old gasket and foam strip. Cleaned area. Installed door gasket. Trimmed foam strip to fit and installed.

Leak has stopped!

First I disconnected the dishwasher electric, water supply and discharge hoses. I then pulled the dishwasher out. After opening the door, I removed the retainer clip holding the upper wash arm, then the nut holding the top shower hose in place. Close the door and lean the dishwasher on its side to get at the underside where the other end of the hose is. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the top shower hose. Reassemble everything in reverse order. In hindsight, I didn't need to buy the new hose clamp or the tub top washer (I reused the originals). Good luck!

I removed the seven screws from the back panel of the door (special tool) and seperated the back panel from the front. My wife held the back up and I removed the two wax motors (detergent cup and rinse aid), which were clipped in place. I had turned off power to the dishwasher, so I simply unplugged each wax motor from the wiring harness, plugged the wax motors in and clipped them in place, making sure that the wiring harness was put back in the same place. Then I put the back panel back on the door, turned the power on and tested the repair. The dishwasher worked perfectly. Thanks to PartSelect for helping me solve the problem. The parts arrived in two days!

I took out both wax motors - tried switching the motors on the rinse dispenser and soap dispenser but they were both dead - new motors from partselect arrived fast - simple installation if you have the torx screwdriver for the door inner panel.

We simply removed the old gasket which was corroded, cleaned up the hard water buildup, and popped the new gasket into place. The problem was fixed! No more leak!

Removed two lower panels using nutdriver. Ran washer through a rinse cycle, to determine for sure where leak was coming from (under door on left). Examined the door gasket and observed buildup of lime deposits and a general depression of the gasket through years of use, especially in lower portions. Removed the old gasket observing how installed. Cleaned out groove with Lime-away and toothbrush. Washed clean using water in a squirt bottle. Dried things out using paper towels, and then pressed new gasket into place, starting at lower left. Readjusted the gasket to fit precisely end to end. Shut door and ran a drip free load.

I first changed the dispenser door latch grommet, which was very eazy except for the left side nut screw which was a little awkwaed to get to with the nut driver. Not a big problem but difficult enough that i stripped the threads (plastic) and had to get a larger screw which is working fine so far. Since the grommet didn't stop the leaking although it was obvious it was leaking from the soap trail. I ordered the gasket and got it very promptly put it on and guess what. Still leaked some. I discovered when they installed the dishwasher the door appeared to be warped. To fix this there are two door tension springs under the bottom panel. By adjusting these with a log screw driver problem finally solved.
It is good to have not only a great place to get parts but the idea's from others are terrific. Although this washer is 15 years old it looks new and now acts new. Thanks so much for good service and advise.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Lifted out the old rack and set in the new one. The raised portion of the new rack was not high enough to clear the lower spray tower, so I adjusted the back wheel "axles" downward about 3/8" with pliers, which raised the rear of the rack enough to clear the tower.