DLG2602W LG Dryer - Instructions

Completely had to dismantle the dryer to get to the igniter.
The screw holding the igniter is a SOB to get at for extraction, and even worse putting back.,

With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.

An appliance repairman determined the problem which was that it needed new pulleys and thankfully PartSelect carried them. He installed them in an hour and my dryer runs fine now.

Unscrew the screw, remove old part, place in new part, replace screw and you are done.

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

I replaced the thermistor, then the gas ignitor which were easy to get to once the drum was out. The gas is still not igniting so not sure where to go from here. Putting the drum belt back on took some muscle. But then I'm 71.

watched the video on line then did the repair, very easy to replace

Removed cover replaced bulb

Simple replacement

Just unscrewed the original lock and screwed the new one on it was very easy

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad.
The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.

The installation of the gas orifice was actually simple. Unscrew the old orifice and screw in the correct orifice. Tricky part of the process was accessing the area of the gas valve.

Followed video provided on site

I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.