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DG300
DG300 Maytag Dryer - Overview
Sections of the DG300
[Viewing 6 of 6].gif "50 CYCLE PARTS Diagram and Parts List for Maytag Dryer")
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Drum Roller Shaft Washer
PartSelect #: PS11740748
Manufacturer #: WP312535
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, then you may need to replace the drum roller shaft washer. This drum roller shaft washer is just under an inch in diameter and is sold indivi...
$13.79
In Stock
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$5.42
In Stock
High Temperature Adhesive - 2oz.
PartSelect #: PS11757492
Manufacturer #: WPY055980
This is replacement high temperature adhesive for your washer and dryer. It is designed to hold objects together, and will not disintegrate at a high temperature. This is a 2-ounce tube of adhesive th...
$26.84
In Stock
Rubber Foot Pad
PartSelect #: PS11738859
Manufacturer #: WP210684
The leveling leg pad or foot pad fits over the leveling leg on your washing machine. The foot pad is designed to protect your floor and keep the washing machine level and in place. This foot pad is ju...
$15.28
In Stock
Adjustable Leveling Leg
PartSelect #: PS2021026
Manufacturer #: 22003428
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, make sure the 4 levelling legs are even. Adjust the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs ...
$18.47
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$13.09
In Stock
Lower Dishrack Kit
PartSelect #: PS2378335
Manufacturer #: W10311986
This kit comes with the wheels, bumpers, fold down tine and flexrow retainer.
$277.64
In Stock
Lint Filter
PartSelect #: PS2028956
Manufacturer #: 300838
This filter collects lint as it passes through the dryer vent.
No Longer Available
Motor Clip
PartSelect #: PS11757442
Manufacturer #: WPY015825
This motor clip is an original manufacturer replacement clip used to secure the motor in your home appliances. It holds the motor firmly to its housing to prevent shaking and potential damage while th...
$21.62
In Stock
DRIVE BELT
PartSelect #: PS2200457
Manufacturer #: Y311012
This belt is V-shaped, 3/8 of an inch wide, and drives the drum.
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for DG300
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Common Symptoms of the DG300
[Viewing 2 of 2]
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.
Parts Used:
-
Rebecca from Wylie, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Wrench set
21 of 28 people
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bottom rack was starting to rust away and we needed a new one
The dishrack came in one box I opened the box snapped on the rollers and the bumpers and put it in the dishwasher, could not have been easier Thank you partselect
Parts Used:
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pat from muncy, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
19 of 26 people
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The drum wasn't rotating very well, and it made grinding noises
In retrospect, this repair was not diffcult, but it took a long time because I could not find any directions or advice on the internet. The first puzzle was getting inside. The back panel comes off very easily with removal of a handful of panel screws. This exposes the motor, belts, drive pulleys, etc., and while I could rotate the drum b
... Read more
y hand, I could not diagnose the grinding noise or why it turned with difficulty.
To go further, I had to remove the cabinet, which is easy - once you know what to do. Take out three screws along each side, near the bottom (of course, don't lose or mix up these screws with the ones from the back panel). You'll also have to detach four colored wires from the motor - the connectors are color coded, so there shouldn't be a mix up when you reattach them later. There are also two wires (B & W) that connect to the back of the drum that nneed to be detached - I marked B and W on the metal with a sharpie so as to remember which goes where. I didn't bother to check, but they must be the wires that connect to the door-open switch. After that, the whole cabinet (sides, front panel and door, top and control panel as one unit) can be tilted forward and lifted off to be set aside.
It turns out the grinding was from all the crap that fell through the gap at the front edge of the drum over the years - handfuls of paper clips, hair clips, wadded wrappers, earrings and $3.60 in change.
It mostly landed in the flange, or sheet metal shield, surrounding the coil heating element, which encircles the front of the drum ("Halo of Heat"). I cleaned all the lint and crud off the heater flange, and from the whole cabinet. Be very careful not to break the heating coil wire or the ceramic insulatots that hold itin a circle - they are somewhat fragile. If you ever need to replace the heating coil element, this is how you get there. It's a fairly simple matter of threading the new wire could through the ceramic insulators and making the obvious electrical connections at either end.
But my issues were still with the frame and exposed drum, belts etc. The drum is suspended from bearings at the back; nothing holds it at the front. There are two belts. One runs from a small pulley on an idler wheel (tensioned by a spring) to a large pulley on the back of the drum. The other is the motor belt, which is the longer of the two, that runs from the motor shaft to a small pulley on the back of the drum (inside the large pulley mentioned above), then over to the large pulley portion of the idler wheel (inside the small pulley mentioned above).
I wondered if any of the bearings on any of the parts was going bad, so I took off the belts. I don't remember which belt should come off first to make it any easier, but you'll manage either way Pull the idler wheel to slightly loosen a little tension on the belts and rotate one belt off a small pulley, then the other one. If you're new to this, take a picture, or make a sketch where the belts go - don't trust yourself to remember it later.
The idler wheel is attached to a bar that slides in a bit of a track or bracket. By lifting the wheel (stretching the spring) and moving it to the R side just a little, the bar can drop down the track and take all the tension off the spring. The spring is hooked into the cabinet at the biottom, and fits on the idler wheel shaft at the top, so you can take it off with no problem. Once you do that, you can pull the idler wheel/pulleys right off toward you. I took the bar out of the bracket and washed it off and polished it with steel wool to get rid of rust. similarly, I cleaned the frame bracket it slides in. I lubricated both parts with a litte petro jelly before reassembling. All the parts were covered with lint, and I took the time to clean everything off, especially the motor. We're talking forty years' worth.
I also went inside the drum and took out the lint filter and a plastic guard, and used a little brush and a vacuum to clean out the caked
To go further, I had to remove the cabinet, which is easy - once you know what to do. Take out three screws along each side, near the bottom (of course, don't lose or mix up these screws with the ones from the back panel). You'll also have to detach four colored wires from the motor - the connectors are color coded, so there shouldn't be a mix up when you reattach them later. There are also two wires (B & W) that connect to the back of the drum that nneed to be detached - I marked B and W on the metal with a sharpie so as to remember which goes where. I didn't bother to check, but they must be the wires that connect to the door-open switch. After that, the whole cabinet (sides, front panel and door, top and control panel as one unit) can be tilted forward and lifted off to be set aside.
It turns out the grinding was from all the crap that fell through the gap at the front edge of the drum over the years - handfuls of paper clips, hair clips, wadded wrappers, earrings and $3.60 in change.
It mostly landed in the flange, or sheet metal shield, surrounding the coil heating element, which encircles the front of the drum ("Halo of Heat"). I cleaned all the lint and crud off the heater flange, and from the whole cabinet. Be very careful not to break the heating coil wire or the ceramic insulatots that hold itin a circle - they are somewhat fragile. If you ever need to replace the heating coil element, this is how you get there. It's a fairly simple matter of threading the new wire could through the ceramic insulators and making the obvious electrical connections at either end.
But my issues were still with the frame and exposed drum, belts etc. The drum is suspended from bearings at the back; nothing holds it at the front. There are two belts. One runs from a small pulley on an idler wheel (tensioned by a spring) to a large pulley on the back of the drum. The other is the motor belt, which is the longer of the two, that runs from the motor shaft to a small pulley on the back of the drum (inside the large pulley mentioned above), then over to the large pulley portion of the idler wheel (inside the small pulley mentioned above).
I wondered if any of the bearings on any of the parts was going bad, so I took off the belts. I don't remember which belt should come off first to make it any easier, but you'll manage either way Pull the idler wheel to slightly loosen a little tension on the belts and rotate one belt off a small pulley, then the other one. If you're new to this, take a picture, or make a sketch where the belts go - don't trust yourself to remember it later.
The idler wheel is attached to a bar that slides in a bit of a track or bracket. By lifting the wheel (stretching the spring) and moving it to the R side just a little, the bar can drop down the track and take all the tension off the spring. The spring is hooked into the cabinet at the biottom, and fits on the idler wheel shaft at the top, so you can take it off with no problem. Once you do that, you can pull the idler wheel/pulleys right off toward you. I took the bar out of the bracket and washed it off and polished it with steel wool to get rid of rust. similarly, I cleaned the frame bracket it slides in. I lubricated both parts with a litte petro jelly before reassembling. All the parts were covered with lint, and I took the time to clean everything off, especially the motor. We're talking forty years' worth.
I also went inside the drum and took out the lint filter and a plastic guard, and used a little brush and a vacuum to clean out the caked
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Parts Used:
-
Jon from Salem, OR
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
14 of 16 people
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