DF20J Crosley Freezer - Instructions

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Replaced the door gasket.

Loosen the two bolts for the door top hinge. Make them loose enough so you have room enough to lift the door off its bottom hinge. But befor you do that use a marker to trace around the top hinge location, makes it easy to set it back correctly.

Take the door and lay it down on the floor, I used a coffe table to allow for the door handle.

Remove all the screws holding the seal on. Note: it’s likely the bottom screws are rusty so get some replacements before doing this job.

Remove old seal and fit the replacement. I installed the four corner screws first to get the seal aligned.

Install ALL screws before tightening, this aids seal alignment with the holes in the door.

Refit door.

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

I had a son put in the new light bulbs. Rather simple

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!