DE20F8 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.

I followed the directions from a post on parts select that somebody had previously written and my repair worked out perfectly. I removed the top / lid of the dryer by placing a flat head screwdriver underneath both top front corners which was relatively simple. I then removed the entire front door of the dryer by disconnecting the electric wires for the door which again was a very simple procedure. The tumbler was now exposed at which time I removed the belt (I took a picture of the belt setup for later reassembly) and lifted the tumbler off giving myself easy access to the rear drum rollers and front drum pads. I was able to see that the wheels were worn and definitely the cause of the squealing. I changed out the wheels with replacement wheels which was self explanatory. The front pads were in good shape but I figured that at this point it would serve me well to replace them also which I did. I then reset the new belt (another part that I opted to change while I had the opportunity) on the tumbler with the picture in hand and had no problem. This step did require two people but still not a difficult step. I then put the door and lid back together and now had myself an extremely quiet dryer and a piece of mind that new parts were installed. All in all pretty easy repair.

My son actually did the repair when he was over here and said it was so easy, even "Mom" could've done it! He said all he did was unscrew one little screw, life out the old part, drop the new part into that slot and replace the screw! It's the easiest repair I've ever heard of! Thank you....I will definitely order parts from your company in the future. Fast shipping too!!

I inserted the clip

I applied the excellent description of accessing and fixing the drier givenby others. When the second fusible link opened, I consulted the Repair Forum. Denman, an obviously experienced responder, walked me through the diagnostics.

I did not ask denman's permission to pass on his recommendations so they may or may not apply to your situation. Heere

"Here are your parts with a wiring diagram
Maytag YE225LV

With the unit apart and drum/belt removed and thermal fuse wires shorted together the motor should run. You also have to tape or hold the door switch closed. I would also disconnect and tape up one of the wires going to the heater coil as it will overheat. Never leave the thermal fuse shorted as the unit can cause a house fire without it.

Be very careful that everything is well taped up so you do not get a short.
You have 220 volts in the unit which is very dangerous.

The motor should manually turn easily from the pulley end.
The ding from the fan indicates that there is a problem here. Check it carefully.
Here is a good site
Dryer Help Sections, repairing dryers, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Inglis, GE, Frigidaire, White Westinghouse, Magic Chef, Norge, changing a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong cord, no heat, electric dryers, gas dryers, how to take apart my dryer, what can st
Check out the Maytag Dependable Care section / 26 -motor problems / "Check this out" at the bottom of the page

Normally your high limit safety thermostat should open before the thermal fuse blows.
When you ran your test did you run it on fluff (no heat) at first?

I would remove and check the heater for a grounded element.
Depending where it breaks/shorts it can be on high heat all the time with the thermostats having no control of it.
From your description this would be my prime suspect!!"

My observations:

1 the reference above is to applianceaid.com, which had useful tips. Tip #4 was washing the filter screen with detergent, as it holds an invisible layer of residual lint.

3. When cleaning, disconnect front panel, take out filter and clean the cavity behind the filter. I used a garden hose and large volumes of lint came out.

Now I am scheduling full clean out at least annually, including washing screen and inside door.

2. since thermal fuses are designed to open when overheated, it is hard to test if they work or not. (They test continuous at room temperature.)

3. at Denman's subsequent suggestion, I replaced the thermal fuse past the blower. (There is a thermal fuse ahead of the heating elements and the elements heated, so it is a less logical failure candidate.)

System working fine. The help was worth as much as the parts!

First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on the floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.

1st thing,,,,unplug dryer from electric,,,Raised the top of dryer, took 2 screws out that held front of dryer on, removed 3 wires and dropped front of dryer. exposed blower wheel,, removed all nuts holding front of blower wheel, removed clamp on front of wheel with pliers, removed old wheel, replaced everything in reverse.

After reading the comments of on-line customers, I realized the dryer opens like the hood of a car and then you pull the front of the dryer door off in order to get to the two screws holding the old lint duct housing unit. Putting the new part on was easier, but I would have appreciated a detailed picture along with the written instructions. Thank you for your quick delivery. Kathleen Yosso

The repair was relativley easy. Had to remove the top, it popped up with a screwdriver and picked it up and leaned against the wall. Then removed two screws to remove the front.Removed old belt then move dryer tub forward, removed bad roller bearing, installed new bearing,applied some grease ( had to use a screwdriver to pry bearing pin off/on which is reusable.Finally installed the new belt around tub, the most trickey part since there was no access panel, but after a few tries it was easy to figure out.Great price on items and i checked several places,quality parts and delivered only a couple days after i ordered. I highly recommend partselect. Thanks Kirt

Was obvious what the problem was when dryer lost heat. Thermostat was fried with one contact burned off.
Unplugged dryer
Opened top of dryer using putty knife to release latches.
Removed 2 wires to Therostat, and removed the old one (2 1/4 hex screws).
Installed new thermostat, and reconected.
Done

Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

Unplugged electric, turned off gas valve. Opened top using a putty knife, laid it gently back against the wall for support. Removed 2 screws holding front on-leaned front out about 3-4 inches- while holding front with my knees I disconnected door switch wires.-then removed front panel. Followed instructions on maintenance sheet glued on underside of dryer top (Lucky it was there). Took tension off drive belt. Removed belt and drum following instructions on lid sheet. Removed old slides (worn out) Installed new pads & slides. Vacuumed out all lint/dust/dirt I could reach, Cheked rear drum rollers. Reinstalled everything that I had removed. It took extra time to do everything because dryer was in tight space, little working space. Turned gas on, plugged in electric cord. Worked great now.

It took me a bit to figure out how to get the outer case to come apart (there are two spring-loaded latches under the front edge of the lid, had to insert a putty knife at just the right spot then lift up the lid). Once it was taken apart, I manually spun the drum to see where the noise was coming from and it was obviously coming from one of the two wheels that support the rear of the drum. Took out the drum after sliding the belt off and replacing the wheels was a piece of cake. They are held on by E-clip style retaining rings, which I destroyed when removing them with a pair of pliers. Luckily the new set comes with new retaining rings, along with the required washers and spacers. I also replaced the metal pins that the wheels spin on, since mine were showing wear and I wanted to make sure it wasn't going to keep squealing after I was done! All in all it was pretty easy! Before you take the belt off, make sure you take note of how the belt winds around the tension wheel so that you put it back on correctly! My girlfriend was VERY impressed that I was able to fix her dryer for about 1/10 of what it would have cost to get a new one!

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.