DCD330GB4KC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.

Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.

Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.

So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.

Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)

Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.

Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.

Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.

Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.

OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...

Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem

We unlatched the top of the dryer by pushing a screwdriver under the two areas where there were metal clips holding it down. We then removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame. We removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on--one on either side. We didn't undo the wiring to the controls, we just kind of pivoted the front aside. We pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame also unwinding the belt encircling the drum. Then we unscrewed the 3 screws holding the bearing to the back of the drum. We removed the plastic that had held the bearing by undoing the screws to the back of the frame. We installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. We installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the little ball bearing in. We used the grease that came with the kit to grease up the plastic where it held the big bearing attached to the back of the drum and inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, pushing the bearing into the plastic holder. The hard part was getting the belt back around the drum and through the pulley on the motor that holds the belt. When that was accomplished, we put the yellow plastic holder back on the front frame with the screws and put the front back on after thoroughly cleaning the inside bottom area where there was a lot of lint. Then we snapped the top back into place.

The part arrived in only 3 days and I didn't even pay for express shipping!

Once I popped the top lid off, and removed the two screws holding the front on it was a breeze from there. Simply take the drive belt off by loosening the spring loaded tensioner on the bottom, lift entire drum slightly up and then out. Remove the screws to replace bearing on rear of drum (4) and the screws that hold the bushing assembly in place (2). Reverse the process and you will be up and running in no time at all.

I was about to buy an ew washer and dryer set, but thanks to PartSelect.com, i saved over $1000!

Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.

Took the top and the front panel off (took me a while to figure this out without breaking stuff). Took off belt, pulled out drum, replaced bearing, and then I also had to replace the ball (attached to rear of drum, which slides inside the bearing).

Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o

First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,

Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.

took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy

What a mess. Partselect shipped the wrong part. I paid a technician to fix it, only to learn the part was wrong. I order the right part. I needed to send it back, reorder the same part, and pay for a second visit from the technician. The nice people at partselect gave me a $7 credit for costing me $200. Losers

Take the top off and front off and disconnect the belt and lift the drum out and there it is . Easy and alot cheaper then new dryer and works like new .

I like to fix , i have time and i just give me the chance to try , and i did it , i wish to pay less for the parts , but was a good feeling when the problem fixed

This was done to a washer/dryer that is in a closet and was worked on in place and not removed so it was all done through the front. Its a good idea to vacuum the inside out before putting it all back together. 1.Remove all of the screws that hold down the top of the dryer and remove top. 2. Remove the front slanted panel below the controls then Remove the two small black screws holding the plastic inserts on the left and right sides of the controls panel plus the two silver screws that will allow it to drop so that you can access the tabs that hold the front section on. 3. Remove screws holding the front section with the door on. The last two will be tabs at bottom that were hidden by control panel. Unplug connector and remove front. 4. Note how belt is positioned around motor and tensioner before removing belt.(just push tensioner until belt is loose enough to slide off of drum to remove belt). 5.Slide out drum and remove old bearing and replace with new one. Be especially careful tightening the three screws that attach the bearing as they are easy to strip. 6. To remove the bushing at the back of the dryer you will remove the two screws. but you will need to hold the clip on the back of the dryer or it will drop when the screws are removed. When re-installing MAKE SURE not to lose your ball bearing that the drum bearing will rest against. I used a strong small magnet to hold the ball bearing against the back of the nylon cradle bushing so I wouldn't lose it when re-installing the bushing and it worked great. Once the nylon bushing was back in place I lubed it thoroughly and put everything back in reverse order. I usually would not fill out one of these do-it-yourself forms but the instructions that are already listed with this part are completely different from what I encountered up to the actual bearing and bushing replacement. Hope this helps.

It took about 20 minutes, first I popped the top off using a flat screwdriver in my leatherman and removed the wires on the door switch then two screws holding the front on, and then I removed the drum which took a little longer because the belt tensioner was difficult to release because of limited space. Removed old bearing (ball and socket) and replaced with new one. I then reassembled in reverse order. Working great. . .

Removed the Drum and replaced the part....

lift top off, remove front panel and replace igniter.

I first checked the heating element by peeking through the peek hole in the front to see if it was turning on. The heating element turned on but gas failed to flow. Next, I checked all sensors including the fuse, they were all fine. This points to the solenoid as the cause of the issue. So I replaced the solenoids and the problem solved. I did watch the YouTube video on how to check the sensors and replace faulty parts.