DBL333GB1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removed and replaced knob.

lift top off, remove front panel and replace igniter.

I first checked the heating element by peeking through the peek hole in the front to see if it was turning on. The heating element turned on but gas failed to flow. Next, I checked all sensors including the fuse, they were all fine. This points to the solenoid as the cause of the issue. So I replaced the solenoids and the problem solved. I did watch the YouTube video on how to check the sensors and replace faulty parts.

Removed top of dryer, took screws out of back of dryer, pulled drum off front of dryer, removed old belt and slid new one in place. Reattached drum to front and slid belt in place only to find it was the wrong size. Called an appliance repair man, he said happens more ften than not.

Simple replaced switch

I took the top and front off the dryer. I then took the screws out of the drum and removed the drum. I then took the old bearing out and put the new one in.

old dryer knob had lost its spring and would not turn on. simply pulled old knob off and replaced by pushing new knob onto shaft. voila! saved myself a service call.

Depending on the condition of the bearing there are two methods described here to change the bearing, the first (and easiest) is if the bearing saddle was not damaged to the point of not allowing the bearing to lift out of it and the second is for when the saddle is damaged.
There are a few items common to both methods so I will start with them and with the belt release.

Parts Needed
Bearing and Shaft kit. Do not bother replacing just bearing or just shaft, do the kit as it is the bearing/shaft and saddle and comes with new ball bearing and grease.
Belt. if going through all this trouble replace the belt while there.

Tools needed:
8mm open/box wrench
good philips head screwdriver
a stubby philips screwdriver
putty knife or wide flat screwdriver
some duct tape

ACCESS

First, unplug the power to the unit and shut the gas off. You'll be working around the motor and burner so this is needed.
Then using the putty knife or flat screwdriver remove the top panel by depressing the latches in the horizontal seam on the front side approx 2" in from each corner.
remove the panel and set it out of the way.
Now unhook the door sensor wires and mark or store them in a manner so you will remember which side of the switch they plug into.
On each corner approx 6" down there is a philips screw, remove these and tilt the front panel forward (to clear the drum and duct seals) then lift upwards to remove the door panel.
Set this out of the way too.

REMOVE BELT FROM MOTOR

The motor pulley and tensioner are hard to see but can be done blind just by feel, they are on the lower right front side of the unit. Reach in on each side of the motor and with left hand push the tensioner towards the right side while with right hand pulling down on the tensioner spring (its a weak spring) to release it from the metal tab on bottom.
Once this is down the tensioner will move to the left and the belt can be removed from the drive puller easily.

At this point you can slide the belt forward and remove it and slide new belt on if you are only doing a belt replace.
Install procedures will be listed below.

REMOVING DRUM

FOR NON-DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is not damaged you can now jerk up (not too much force) on the rear of the drum and this will pop the shaft bearing end out of the saddle. Then carefully slide the drum forward through the cabinet to a palce you can access it easy.
Remove the shaft and bearing from the drum by removing the three phillips screws whose heads are inside the drum.
Now remove the saddle from the cabinet by removing the 2 bolts (8mm head) that go trough the rear, there is a ball bearing in the saddle that may be useful to save in case you drop the new one and there is a screwplate on exterior rear that will fall when you remove the final bolt.

FOR DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is damaged (distorted) the procedure is a bit different and quite a bit harder, but not awful bad. It adds about 20 to 60 minutes extra (depends on how the screws come out) to the whole job.
First remove the drum from the shaft by unscrewing the three philips head screws from inside the drum and, like in prior method, carefully pull the drum through the front of the cabinet and set it aside.
Then to remove the saddle you may be able to remove the two 8mm head bolts by flexing the plate to the side and loosening each bolt a bit while alternating. However I had to actually move the burner ducts a bit to get at mine as I could not turn the left side bolt.
This is where the stubby screwdriver is needed, there are 4 philips screws whose heads are hidden by the seals on the ducts, by folding the seal back a bit you can access them. I was able to just do the three at the top, left, and lower left and slide the duct a bit to allow wrench access to the bolt. I did not have to remove the lowest screw myself but you may need to.
Always make sure to not bend the tin too much and this will hurt heat movement through the system.
Once you have the saddle removed, rememberi

Replaced the start switch.

Removed old switch, replaced it with new

Had to pry dryer front off drum because buttons had caught between glide and felt causing excessive heat that melted the glide to the felt. Removed old felt from dryer front and replaced glide then reassembled machine. Took longer overall time because I did not realize two glide parts were needed so repair was delayed until second glide was received.

Just push the new knob over the metal pin

Put in the new switch and it starts great. Now that it runs there is no heat. I assume the elements are out.

pushed replacement knob on shaft of dryer. machine works better than new. took less than 24 hours from time of order to time of delivery to my house.

removed 4 scewws deom case snapped out switch placed the new one attached two wires re attached with the 4 screws