CYG4000AWW Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer and slid it a few inches out from the wall. I slid 2 putty knives in the front top about 3 inches in from the sides. Released the top and raised it up. I used a multimeter to test the hi limit and the element, both were operational. I used a screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. I lowered the panel slightly and disconnected the wires mentally noting the proper placement. With the front panel on the floor, the problem was obvious. I cleaned the lint clog under the lint screen that had caused the issue to begin with.I used a shop vac and cleaned the vent area as well as the front panel. I used a nut driver to remove the 2 screws that held the thermostat in place. The old thermostat fell apart in my hands. I covered the bare exposed wires with electrical tape. ( must have gotten HOT) and reattached the connections to the new thermostat, then replaced the 2 screws that held it secure. I stood the front panel back up and reattached the electrical connections and the 2 screws. I lowered the top and plugged it back into the outlet. I turned it on. It works like new.

I removed the 2 screws that hold the ignighter & cover in place...unpluged the wire...replaced it with the new ignighter...thats when I found out that it was easier to take off than to put on...but I got it back into place...replaced the 2 screws...put the new belt on the drum...fitted it around the moter...pulled the wheel spring back to get it on tight...made sure the drum was fitted around the wheels...checked the tension...plugged in the wire for the ignighter...tested to see if the ignighter glowed...it did...I but the door back on the dryer...and it works...i thank my father for showing me how to work on machines...instead of letting me play with my dolls...thank you Parts select for getting my order to me in great condition & record time...

0. Opened packaged and receipt verified the parts against the drawing and packing slip.
1. Disconnected dryer from power source by pulling the plug.
2. Removed the two screws (philips) on left and right side of the main frame to allow access to the blower assembly.
3. (Optional)Verified power dead at the circuitry near the blower wheel assembly (former navy electrician- "check it dead").
4. Removed the two screws at the base of the wheel cover using the screw driver (philips). The other screws on the assembly cover required the use of a 1/4" nut driver.
5. Opened the assembly, and with a flathead, pried the Retaining Omega ring, and removed the damaged wheel (broken vanes and missing straight end of the center ring) and disposed.
6. Inserted the new wheel on the shaft and was able to manually do it until about 3/4 of the way; to get it fully insert it, tap it with a mallet (tap the center of the wheel and avoid the blades).
7. Insert the retaining ring and operationally test it by manually rotating the tumbler and verifying the blower wheel moves freely and without noises.
8. (Optional) Vacuumed the lint and dust from the wheel assembly, the filter and exhaust line (found several broken pieces of vanes there). Inspected heater assembly for obvious signs of damage
9. Re-installed the assembly cover and the main cover back to the frame
10. Reconnected the plug to outlet and tested by a starting a 10 minutes cycle- no noise and constant flow of air.
11. Smoked a Motecristo Churchill as I grilled the steaks and pondered the greatness of the free market.

,

First off, the parts were exactly what I needed and arrived at my front door in less than 48 hours.
The repair was quite easy. 1. access the "guts" by popping the two clipps and open top panel like a car hood.2. remove the high temp doohickie with a nut driver, one screw, two wires.3. Remove the heating element from its mount. 4. remove the high temp fuse doohickie, By popping off its wires and little retaining bracket. 5. do steps (in this order) 5-1 replacing new parts. 6. spend three hours looking for the dryer brush, you know you have somewhere, to clean 5 years of accumulated lint out of the lint trap.7. drive to Ace, by dryer brush. 8. (most important step) clean the lint trap, or be forced to repeat steps 1-5. 9. Pop a cold one and relish the peace and quiet, devoid of spousal nagging to fix the damn dryer. 10. Take down clothesline in backyard.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.

I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

Very easy repair. Just needed to remove some screws to access the heating element area. The fuses are (1) just above the elements and (2) to the right side of them (if facing from the front). Alittle loosening with a philips screwdriver, removing blown fuses, replace with new fuses, tighten new fuses in place, replace outer screws and job done. Also made sure to fully clean lint collection area. I had a good amount stuck in there and it restricted air flow which caused the fuses to blow. It took 6 years worth of drying to make it happen.

Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!

I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.

After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

First, I inserted a screwdriver between the front panel and the top and popped the top loose. Next, there is a screw close to the top of the front panel on each side. Remove these. Next I unplugged the light switch from the front panel and removed the panel. Next, unscrew the gas line from the burner assy. and remove the screw holding the burner assy. to the frame. CAREFULLY, remove the burner assy. taking care not to break the ceramic igniter. Remove the assembly and unscrew the brass screw on the right side of the burner. Replace the screw with the new assembly furnished with the conversion kit. Remove the tube that directs the gas to the ducting. Unscrew the orifice fitting and replace with the new fittings furnished with the kit. Reinstall the tube and CAREFULLY return the burner assembly to the dryer. Screw the assy to the frame and re-connect the gas line. Replace the front panel, 2 screws, and snap the top back down onto the front panel, taking care to align the two guide pins. Connect the gas line to the dryer and install the ducting. Plug it in and test for leaks.

The top was hard to figure out but I found that it pops off at the front with a flat screw driver. Be careful not to scratch the paint. I found that a rear drum roller was bad and the drum seals were deteriorated. I ordered a new belt, roller kit, front, and rear seals. This way I hoped I will not have to take it apart again. The seal were the hardest parts to replace. Make sure you look and remember how they were on before removing them. The directions were not to clear on the seals. The rest were good. It is much better to do it once. Take a picture if possible, it might come in handy as I took mine apart a week or so before the parts came in. I also cleaned out all of the accumulated lint buildup with a shop-vac, including the vent pipe, heater area, and front door. When I was done with this it worked like brand new.