CWG3100AAE Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.

My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.

Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.

In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.

My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!

I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this one. $40.00 beats $700.00

First I pulled out the oven from the cabinet. Disconected the power, I removed the cover from the back, disconected the wires from the igniter. Removed the igniter from inside the oven. Reversed the process to install the igniter. Turned on the oven, it worked. Sat down and had a beer.

This repair project was too easy!...and cheap. Sears quoted the price of the igniter at $280 plus the service call and the item cost $41 on PartSelect. The part was received the next day after the order was placed...WOW! So easy, turn off the power to the oven, open the oven door, remove the oven racks and lift the bottom pan of the oven up from the back and set it aside. There you see the flat type igniter in plain view at the back of the oven. Remove two screws with nuts using a nut driver (I had trouble because the screws were corroded and I had to use some, um, force to get them out and swore a little too). Once the screws were out, pull the igniter elecrtic wires and connector from the entrance hole in the back after moving a little insulation out of the way. Release the connector plug and unplug the old igniter and simply plug in the new one. Find new screws and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to push the connector and wiring back into the hole and cover with the insulation. Very easy job that anyone could do.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Replaced the element and attached the wires. Making sure I pushed the wires back through the hole far enough so the wires wouldn't touch the back of the stove. I then replaced the sensor by removing the two screws and pulling the wire through the hole so I could disconnect them. I reconnected the new sensor and made sure I pushed the wires back through the hole far enough away from the back of the stove. Replaced the screws and was all set to start the stove. I started the stove and it took about 10 min. to reach the set temperture. The stove worked great.

I removed the rear access panel on the oven in order to get to the igniter wires. While testing the output voltage of the old igniter when on, I found that it was producing less than 3 volts ac. This was my clue that although the igniter glowed, it was going bad and needed to be replaced. I unpluged the oven, shut off the gas feed to the oven then removed the oven bottom pan (pull two push pins back, lift up and out) and removed the burner baffle wing nut with baffle. This gave easy access to the igniter and it's two mounting screws which i removed using a phillips screw driver. I unpluged the old igniter from the connector, pluged in the new one after routing it through the access hole from inside the oven to the back of the oven where the connector is located.
Mounted the new igniter, replaced the burner baffle, baffle nut, oven bottom, rear access panel cover, checked and turned on the gas, plugged the oven back in and sure enough it fired up right away. if you check the system of how your oven works and find the problem, it's easy to fix it yourself and save serious money...and look like a hero to the rest of the family.

First I removed the oven grates and then the metal plate that covers the burner and igniter.Then I removed the two screws that hold in the igniter,be careful because the threads on the sheet metal screw strip off easily due to the heat. Then I slid out the storage drawer on the bottom of the stove.Next I removed two screws that hold on a cover in front of the gas valve where the igniter is plugged in.I unplugged the old igniter, removed it then replaced it with the new one.I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.I did have to use a nut and bolt to replace the damaged sheet metal screw.

This oven was located in a rental house I own.

I first removed the metal plate that covers the burners at the bottom of the oven. No tools required for this step.

Next I turned the oven to 300 degrees, waited 30 seconds and noticed that the igniter was glowing brightly, but the burners did not light.

I next turned the oven controls off, pulled the plug, and set to work removing the 2 screws holding a plate to the back oven wall and the 2 screws holding the igniter to the burner. These last 2 screws had corrosion on them and I needed to use vise-grips to get a firm hold on them. During reassembly these screws no longer held firmly because the hole they threaded into was enlarged during disassembly.

With the screws loose I pulled the igniter and fished the wires connected to it through the opening until I saw the connector. I then pulled the stove out of its opening and saw that there was a easily removable metal cover over the wires, and I took it off.

The new igniter came with an incompatible plug, so I cut off the connector on the stove wiring and on the new igniter and used wire nuts to make the new connections. I kept the orientation of the old and new plugs the same way in case the wiring mattered, but that was just being safe. I don't know if the igniter cares which of its wires go to which wire on the stove.

I reinstalled the screws holding the igniter, and shoved short sections of the supplied wiring into the screw holes so that the screws would hold more tightly. I shoved the supplied insulation into the opening that the wires passed through, and reattached the cover at the back of the stove.

I shoved the stove back into its opening, turned the oven on and it lit within 15 seconds.

I was very happy with the result, and the product I ordered arrived on time, well packaged and I'm a very happy customer.

First I removed two screws that hold the oven sensor in place. I then removed the screws that held the panel on the back of the oven. I simply unclipped the plastic adaptor and replaced the old sensor with the new one. I screwed the sensor back in and put the back panel on. turned the power back on to the oven and hit the bake button. Voila!! The oven turned on and now it works like new!!!

I Opened the top front panel, removed the control screws, pulled the control forward, took a photo of the wire locations, installed the new control and buttoned it up. Job was done and the oven works fine.

It was easy to confirm that I ordered the proper control due to all of the pictures you have illustrating the part on your website - very good.

Incidentally, we needed the oven to roast a turkey on Christmas day. I ordered the part on Dec. 21 and received it on the 23rd, and had the oven working within an hour - great service.

First I removed the oven door for easier access then, removed the oven grates and bottom pan. Then there is a wing nut that holds the heat deflector in place over the manifold thats needs to be removed. Now you can see the igniter, remove the 2 small hex head screws and disconnect electrical connection.
Simply reverse the sequence to reinstall.
This may sound like alot to do but it only took 15 minutes to complete and I'm not an appliance repair person. Anyone who is somewhat of a handyman can accomplish this job.