CWE6800ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

replaced broiler element - still would not heat.
Called repairman and the control panel is out and will cost around 200.00 to replace. To replace the element, my son helped as my arms weren't long enough. Removed two screws at back and two screws on front of broiler brace. Pulled out and removed wires and hooked them to the new element. Had to turn off circuit breaker. Pushed element back into the holes and replaced screws.
In this instance, it would have been cheaper had I just called the repairman first. However, I have an extra broiler element in case it goes out again.

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

I ordered the bake heating element from Part Select on March 23rd and paid the small amount for overnight shipping. Believe it or not I received the heating element the next morning at 10:00 am. I do not know how they did this since I live in KC MO and they are in PA i believe. They show you a diagram of the part you need with the part number on their web sight. I opened the well packaged item and took out two screws on the existing bad element and took it out, BY THE WAY MAKE SURE THAT YOU SHUT OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. I neglected to turn off the breaker because I thought the oven would have to be on to have power. This was a mistake because the heating element shorted when I tried to pull it out.
This was entirely my fault. I shut off the breaker and installed the new heating element in about five minutes. It worked great and we had our oven back in two days. My wife was very impressed with my electronics experience but I did not tell her everything. I would highly recomend this company. Don

I removed the 2 screws in the back. You have limited room to work but it is enough. The screws were somewhat hard to come off so I used a rachet set as well as a screwdriver. Pulled the element forward and tilted it up. The prongs has to be wiggled out. Went back together very easily. Wouldn't have tried it myself if I hadn't read the posts here. It was REALLY that easy!!!

I removed the single screw on each side of the oven by the hinge to remove the hinge cover plate and expose the hinge opening. I lifted off the glass oven door up and out and set it on my work bench. The door is heavy because its glass so make sure the doors on the way to the garage are open to your work bench area. I installed the cover plates back on so i would not loose the little covers and screws. I removed the screws all around the door and set them in a cup and lifted up the inner part of the door and the hinges are exposed. After removing the screws that hold on the hinges it lifted right out. I cleaned all the glass and set the new hinges in and locked them down with the screws and installed back the inner part of the door to the outer part and returned all the screws back. I then removed they screws on the hinge covers. I did not loose them with 4 kids running around and lifted the door back into the hinge openings and pushed down and it locked in. I then put a little pressure down on the door and removed the little locking pins. I pushed the door all the down and installed the hinge covers back on and it works beautiful. I think the new hinges are better than the set that came with the Jenn-Air wall oven. Thanks Parts Select. Also the new hinges came in 3 days as promised.

Removed old part with a pair of pliers and plugged the new part into place.

Very simple and the self cleaning feature works again.

Sunday, four days before Thanksgiving, our oven would not bake properly. A quick check indicated the top element was not working. What to do? Where to get a part in time to fix for Thanksgiving dinner? The answer was easy - PartSelect. I had the part in my hands on Tuesday AM. Oven was fixed in 15 minutes and my wife was baking pies within an hour. All worked well and yes, we had a wonderful trukey dinner. Great service !

Piece of cake. Removed two screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out to expose two wires connected with friction clips. Connected the new element and screwed it back in place. My wife got back to baking and now I am enjoying a different piece of cake.