CWE5800ACE Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I removed the two screws holding the element in place and disconnected the two wire terminals.
I then reversed the above steps to insatll the new element. SUPER EASY!!

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

no instructions on how to replace element. first i removed the 2 screws that held the element to the oven. then i pulled the element out with the wires attached. at first i couldn't tell how the wires were attached - i thought they may have been soldered on. it took awhile for me to figure it out the wires were attached to a part that pulls up off the element part. no solder was needed. after i figured that out, easy to pull the part up off the element part.

I removed the two screws that held in the old part. I pulled the element out a few inches.I disconnected two wires from the old element and connected it to the new. Using the screws provided I reconnected the unit. All went well. No need for repairman. 1

Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!

I drilled two holes on the plate and I did use same original screws.

I just wanted to say once it was installed, It worked great.

Thank you,

Sam

removed 10 screws on the outer door assembly, removed front glass/door panel. Continue to remove glass protector, the frame that holds the glass. Remove the layer that protects insulation and surrounds glass. Remove glass assembley, replace with new kit. Replace everything back in order. Replace door on oven. Inner screws were phillips head, the screws on the door were hex.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

First, I left the new part on the kitchen counter for a couple of days. To my surprise, NOT, my husband didn't take the bait.

With no other options I took control. First I turned off the power to the wall oven, unscrewed the bracket at the back of the oven which holds the broiler in place. Then I unscrewed the brace on the top of the the oven, pulled the element out, unhooked the connectors for the old, connected the new, and slid broiler into the brace. Screwed that down then pushed wires and connectors back and screwed bracket in place. Turned power back on and tested - works great.

Still don't think my husband's noticed a thing. Somethings are just better left unsaid.

I installed the new racks

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Easily disconnected the wires and removed cracked element and replaced with new one

Followed example your provided- excellent guidance.