CWE4200ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I TURNED THE POWER OFF !!! removed the two screws holding the element in place, disconnected the two power wires, installed the new element. Done, in less than five minutes.

The instructions reviewed in the Maytag Parts web site provided very good information that told me how to remove and replace the heating element. It took me about 15 minutes to complete the replacement. The oven then began to function properly.

I am impressed with the rate I was sent the replacement. I received the replacement within 24 hours after I submitted the request for the product.

Unscrewed old element from back of oven, disconnected and reinserted new element and screwed back into place. Voila! So glad to have saved the cost of a repairman. Where I live this would have been a $200 repair(part and service call) easily. This repair took no time at all. Very please as to how fast Parts service got the part to me. I use my oven a lot, so I was lost without it.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

This was too simple, turned off the power to the oven, undid the two screws, unplugged two wires, plugged wires into the new element, fastened the new screws and turned the power back on. Turned on the oven, what do you know, it works again!

The element did not come with instructions and none were needed.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Removed broiler element and replaced it with new element.
Part I received from partselect was a perfect match which made for a easy installation.

Removed two screws. Gently pulled old element away from back of oven, exposing two wires. Disconnected the element from wires by pulling the ends apart with hands. Reconnected the wires with new element. LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES! Saved about a hundred bucks!. (Demo on You Tube.)

It was very simple. First thing I did was to go online to youtube and type in the kind of repair I intended to do. There were several short videos showing you how to do the replacement.It was easy and took about 30 to 45 minutes. First thing is shut off the power to the oven. ( Very important). You then need to take out two screws that hold the element in place. At this point, just pull the element toward the front of the oven. You will see some insulation at the hole where the wires come out. Slowly work the element forward until you see the fasteners on the wires ( two wires).Disconnect the fasteners and throw the old element out and put the new one in the oven.Connect the element, push everything back into the hole and screw the element to the back wall. You're done ! I had two wall ovens to fix.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Very easy. Didn't have to replace whole unit

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!