CVEX4100B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).

First, the Sears repairman diagnosed the switch as broken, and told us that th part, if it were available, would be $150 plus labor. However, he said it was not available, so we'd need to get a new counter top stove all together. Not.

I came to Parts Select, and I found the fan control switch listed here (if you found this story, you've found the right part). In one day, I had the part in my hand...the part that Sears said didn't exist.

First, I turned off the main fuse switch controlling the stove top! Very important! Then I tried to heat up the elements to verify that the electricity was disconnected.
I removed the glass top, then the pan, then removed the side screws that hold the flange in place, the same flange thae holds the knob control area in place. Then I removed the knobs (they just pull right off). Then I removed the knob control area. A small nut holds the fan control switch in place. Remove that, then the switch is loose under the control area. There are 4 wires, but two are connected to each other, so don't panic! Swap them out for your new part, and at this point, very carefully, turn on the main electric again and verify that the switch works. It should.

Turn off the electricity again, then mount the switch up under the control area. There should be a little, bitty tab on the control switch box that fits perfectly into the metal control panel, just to the left of the hole for the stem of the control switch--proof that this switch is meant to be used on this Jenn Air Expressions model CVEX4100/4270/4370 series counter top.

Then reverse the steps to replace all the panels, knobs, pans and elements, and you can cook without smoking up your kitchen, all for thousands less than a brand, new appliance.

Oh, one more thing. The nut around the old switch cannot be used on the new switch. However, you can use a nut from a coaxial cable fitting! It is the same thread count. I used mine from an RCA In Line F Connector 4 pack...part number VH664N.

Lift off blower vent cover. Lift out old filter. Clean walls and bottom of down draft using degrease soap and warm water. Dry. Discovered my grease filter will not install diagonally as shown in unit manual. Decided to drop into downdraft and put in front of fan suction. Found this left a gap at the top of fan suction that was not covered by the filter. Cut piece of wood 1 inch thick and width and length to drop down in the downdraft and lay on bottom. Set filter on top of wood in front of the fan suction. Verified that fan suction would pull filter tight against the opening by turning fan on and off. Put vent cover back over downdraft and told wife I was done.

Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!

I removed the center vent and inserted the filter...easy as pie...I went to your website and everything was there in an easy to follow way that even I could understand, my husband was totally impressed that I took care of it on my own....silly man.....it was so easy and delivery was extremely quick....so simple....thank you for making it so!!!!

Our Jenn-Air cook top is 25 years old. One can no longer order parts for this old of model. We ordered new SS burners as well as new Burner cartridge terminal blocks for a new and current model. They work perfectly. Took 10 minutes. $ 350 dollars verses $ 2600 for a new JennAir range plus instillation. Unit looks and works great. Plan to order new switches next.

The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the glass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.

First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. This will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.

Replaced the filter which required no tools.

Took the modules out of the cooktop. Removed all screws in the metal trim piece around the top of the cooktop. Removed the trim piece. Removed screws that held in the control panel and lifted control panel out. Removed screws holding on the top black glass cover of the control panel. Unhooked and removed the broken switch. Went to order replacement part... The switch for the cooktop was No Longer Available - tried everyone! DH had a great idea - look at the part they use in the newer cooktops and see if it might work. Ordered it with fingers crossed. Spec's on part checked out. Had to extend one of the connection receptors. Hooked up the switch and tested - Voila! Put everything back together and all is well. Dont have to replace a really good cooktop, even though it is 15 years old!!!

I looked up the part on the web site and ordered it. When it arrived, I unscrewed the control face plate and got access to the switch. The new switch did not match the old one. I called Jenn- Air parts, and they said it was the correct one. although the switch looked different. (The old one looked like it had 4 connections. After closer look, it had three connections all on one terminal.) I installed the new one and it worked. If you replace your fan switch, be careful. The new one is different than the old one, but it works fine.

Removed the old element and inserted the new one. Parts shipped promptly and repair was a breeze.

I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I decided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.

Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.

Shut off the power at the fuse box.
Removed the IR unit.
Removed the (4) surface unit control knobs.
Removed the 3 screws (philips) that hold the control strip in place.
Loosened the old switch with a 1/2 " wrench.
Removed the control strip,
Removed the old switch, moved the wires from the old switch to the new switch, it was a bit different, but although at first glance it looks like there are multiple connections for the blue wires, they are all interconnected, on both the old and the new switch.
Mounted the new switch in the control strip, then when testing it (no power yet) I found out I had mounted it wrongly (Off was now on top) I turned the switch, mounted the control strip and all the knobs.
Turned the power back on and everything worked as designed.
One word of caution, I used my lathe to drill out the broken stem from the original control knob (did not want to spend the $$ for a new one) if you do not have the tools to do that I suggest you buy that knob also when you order your new switch.