The function of the grease filter is to trap grease into the filter from the exhaust air. The grease filter is intended to be used with certain downdraft cooktops and ranges. This grease filter is rou...
This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, controls and regulates the heat output of the burners on a stovetop. The user simply adjusts the knob on the user interface panel, which i...
This down-draft fan switch kit comes with the switch itself and two metallic push nuts. At 125 volts,this switch will allow for 6 amps, and at 250 volts, this switch will allow for 250 volts. This swi...
This infinite switch knob is an inch and a half in diameter. It is made of plastic and has an orange indicator line as well as orange lettering denoting the 'off' position. There is also white numberi...
This hex nut is an authentic Whirlpool part that is sourced directly from the original equipment manufacturer, and will fit a variety of appliances including ovens, microwaves, refrigerators, air cond...
This rivet is an inch and a half long. It is used for many washing machines, microwaves, refrigerators, dryers, and ranges. Use of this rivet requires a rivet tool.
This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in
... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
