CTL1511GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the Hex head small screw at the middle back of the Back wall of the fridge above the top shelf. Removed the 2 small Hex Head screws that go into the of the Plastic cover upwards into the top roof of the fridge.
I ended up with an extra screw so I dont know what I did...
The hard part is pushing up on the two tabs, one on each side in the extreme back on the bottom of that white plastic cover. You have to pull the coverwhile releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The Right side was easier, I got that side to release and drop down. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a fat screwdriver.
Then you have to kinda of Bend the cover to get it to slide out...

Then take out the 2 phillips screws above the light bulbs. the left side one is tricky, need long skinny driver.

Drop assembly down and on the back right is the ADP board. Mine was a bare board but the replacements are enclosed in white plastic that fit in place just fine.

Pry connector off of the board carefully and drop new plastic circuit board case in and replace.

Put a thermometer in a glass of water. unplug fridge for 10 minutes and then plug it in. Give it a few hours..
Everything seems fine.
A steady 39 degrees with the Fridge control at a few ticks right of middle.
I have no idea what it was before my troubles...
But 36 - 41 seems to be what you need.

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

remove back lower panel using nutdriver. Locate and remove Relay and Overload parts from side of Compressor which were located inside a small white box shaped cover unti held on by a spring clip. Attach new Relay and overload to 3 pin terminals on side of compressor. Attach 1 white & 1 orange/white wire to relay terminals. Attach supplied white jumper wire to Overload and other end to Blue wire. Instal new cover supplied with kit replacing old box type cover.

Well, off course, I started with the refrigerator UNPLUGGED :)
The hardest part of this repair was removing the plastic cover in the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment to get to the board. The screws all were easy to find (2 on either side of the temperature slide control; 2 on either side of the bulbs; and two in the underside of the compartment that houses the board in the far back right corner) and came out easily, however the 2 little plastic "tab locks" at the rear of the cover made things a little difficult. The right combination of pressure on the tabs and outward pulling of the cover took me quite a few tries to get right; but once the cover was off the rest of the repair was simple! The replacement part is a little different from the original in that it is now encased in a plastic housing, whereas the original was just a bare board. But it fit in perfectly - I snapped off the old wiring assembly and snapped in the new one, and we were off to the races. The cover proved to go back on a little easier than it had come off and in about 3 hours I heard the first piece of ice drop and the refrigerator compartment was down to 30 with the temperature setting set in the middle at 5. (I've sinced lowered it a little to bring the temp to about 36) - This was a really easy repair that saved me about $200; a break I really needed. And if you don't believe that it's easy and that you can do it yourself, this should really motivate you.................................. I AM A GIRL!!!! :) lol.
Good luck!!!

The fridge wasnt cooling and freezer was barely operating. We had the same problem in 2005 and the fan that blows cold air into the freezer and fridge was replaced for $200 BY Maytag. We looked up the part and found two choices with different connectors but narrowed it down by the pictures and series #. The part was ordered Sunday and arrived Tuesday for ~80$. To intsall you simply remove food and shelves then 4 nuts that hold back pnael in place. Then release one wiring harness connector to allow the panel to pivot out. After that you can easily release the clips holing the fan cover and then undo two screws to drop assembly out. Two more screw release fan body (you can reuse the fan blade) and one more for the earthstrap. After that follow reverse instructions to reassemble and after ~45 mins the unit was as good a new. Having said that there seems to be a basic design flaw in this maytag unit if fans only last 3-4 years. Still much cheaper than buying a new fridge.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove face plate located in the upper back of the refrigerator compartment. Remove face place bracket on the right using nut driver. Removing these screws also frees the metal case enclosing the Defrost Timer. Pull the case away from the back of the refrigerator exposing the Defrost timer. Remove the electrical plug from the Defrost Timer. Then remove the Defrost Timer from the case by removing the two screws securing it. Reverse the procedure to install the new Defrost Timer.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Luckily, this Maytag refrigerator is only used for sodas and beer and so I had time to tinker with it. By the way, I am a 64 yr old retired woman. First of all, I took the back off and vacuumed everything. Then I emptied the freezer, removed the ice-maker, and removed the back panel. It was solid ice around the thermostat area and down in the vent between the freezer and refrigerator. A little time and a hair dryer resolved the ice problem. I thought the problem was the thermostat, so I ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect.com for the freezer, and it came a couple days later. I installed that (it just snaps in) and ran it overnight, but no success. After reading many blogs on the internet, I checked the fan motor, which blows the air from the freezer to the refrigerator, to see if it was getting power with a small voltmeter. It was, but was not working. I ordered a new fan motor from PartSelect (I was a little confused by series number, but finally found which one to order), and it arrived a couple days later. Taking out the fan required removing a couple of screws and unclipping the wiring, then pulling the old fan off the old motor and putting it on the new motor, then putting everything back the way it was. As soon as I plugged it back in, the fan started blowing right away, so I knew that I had resolved the problem. I bought a thermometer for checking freezer and refrigerator temps, and they are perfect with the settings for both on "5". So now I consider myself a Maytag repairman, uh, woman.

Cooling coils froze up. Removed back panel in freezer section. After thawing coils, manually advanced defrost timer to check if fan stopped and defrost (heat) strips energized. Fan did stop, but heating strips did not energize to thaw coils. Used electrical meter to determine circuit was open at defrost thermostat. Ordered replacement and installed in about 20 minutes. No issues so far.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

First I removed the cardboard cover, which was held in place by 7 screws. Actually first I unplugged the fridge, next using a nut driver I removed the 3 screws holding the supports to the motor. The motor with fan just pulls right out. Next was to disconnect the wire harness or plug, which required squeezing together the plastic plug and moving it side to side while gently pulling.
With motor in hand using a pair of pliers remove the poor excuse for a nut of the fan motor shaft holding on the fan. Slide the fan off the shaft -note direction of blades!!!! Using a nut driver remove 2 srews holding on the plastic motor support . This slides right off the back. To assemble follow the reverse . Just check to see that the fan spins freely before plugging back in your fridge.

The adaptive defrost assembly is located in the refrig compartment. This requires removing the panel which covers the temp controls and interior lighting. In the back right hand corner is the adaptive defrost circuit board. It has a six wire connector and is retained by two screws.

Remove the two screws and grip the connector making sure to disengage the locking tab with holds the connector in place.

Replace with the new assembly by plugging in the connector, replacing the two screws and then reinstalling the compartment cover.

Set the temperature lower than you normally would temporarily to make sure that the system is working properly (takes 30 - 45 minutes).

Once the unit begins to cool again, you can gradually readjust the temperature to it normal range in both the freezer and refrig compartments.

I used a flashlight and a mirror to check the coil in the freezer compartment for a couple of days to make sure that the defrost function was working correctly by looking up into the louvers and observing if there was any ice accumulation.

Easy repair and Partselect provided great on-line information. Also, I probably saved a bundle.

Defrosted coils with hair drier and after the freezer was turned back on the freezer cooled to 0 Deg. within 4 hours but coils collocted ice. Checked coil with ohmmeter OK replaced Defrost Assy. Repair was very easy and new replacment unit is sealed and the original is an open curcuit board. thanks for allowing me to share this with you!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?