CSX20BABGWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

After removing the 4 screws from the inside back panel of the freezer and setting a small heater with fan, on a small metal step ladder for about twenty minutes to defrost the freezer coils, it was a snap to remove the two small screws holding the burned out heater harness defrost assembly, and unplugging the wire harnesses to replace the burnt unit with a new one. Actual hands on time was about 5 minutes. Difficulty level, well... my wife did it and she is not mechanically inclined.

I bought the GE Refrigerator about 4 years ago for about $1500. The defrost Heater failed about one year ago. Then I called local repair guy, he replaced the Defrost Heater and charged me about $250. Now it happened again. I think we should try it to fix it by myself. I found the parts from partselect.com, it costs me $50 with 2-3 days shipping. After it replaced, it works fine again.

Note: Symtom: cannot make cool air, Frozen area with frost on the wall. Regeriator "leaking water" on floor since iced food started to melt...

Solution: open the cover of the wall inside of frozen zone, use hot water to defrost it gradually. removed the failed Defrost Heater and replaced it with new one.

Note: after you defrost the area inside of the wall, your refrigerator will work normally without the Defrost heater without any issue about week while you are waiting for the parts coming.

Great Service! Received the part the NEXT DAY!

We originally called a service technician. He came the next day and said the mother board was no good. He order a new one and replaced it a week later. Total part & labor cost: $185.00 (Remember we're without a working refrigerator the whole time the part is on order)
Two days later the freezer is doing the same thing. We call the tech again and he seems confused and says it could be the heating element, he'll order one at no charge and replace it for us free. He never comes back with the part and does not answer our 2 dozen phone calls. I checked the element myself and saw that the tube had been scorched, like a burnt out light bulb. Searched for parts on internet and found this great site. "Partselect.com"
REPAIR:
Refrigerator had been unplugged for a few days to defrost ice build up in freezer. First, I removed the shelves from freezer compartment, removed the back panel and removed screws holding heater element in place, I unplugged the two electrical leads and plugged in new part. AS EASY AS THAT !!!!! I reinstalled the screws to hold the element, installed the back panel and replaced the freezer shelves. I plugged the refrigerator back in and within hours the freezer started making ice again. It's been about 3 weeks and we have not had a problem since.
Fantastic Service and instructions and Inexpensive !!!! I will use this site again, if needed, and will recommemd to anyone who needs parts.

removed 2 - 1/4" screws and 2 phillip screws to take off the evap cover, then 2 phillip srews to take out the defrost heater assembly, replaced and put everything back together. no problem.
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!

UNPLUGGED REFRIGERATOR..
removed top shelf in refrigerator..removed back plate covering controls..removed two screws holding control housing..removed two screws holding defrost timer..unplugged defrost timer and plugged new timer in..put all parts back in place with procedure reversed..

I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.
Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.
I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.

Turned the power of to the fridge took the food out of the freezer put in the fridge took out all the shelves and took off the panel to get to the coils. I used a hair dryer and a shop vac to defrost the coils used the shop vac to suck up the water as the ice melted also put some paper towel in the drip tube so the water would not go to the drip pan. Took off old defrost heater which was a single heater the new on was a double heater fished out the blue wire from the left side of compartment and ran it down the right side plugged both wires into the heater mounted it into place and put everything back. Turned on fridge and it has been working fine ever since. Thanks for the last person that did this I read his review and it really was that easy
Thanks Jerry

Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.

First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. The door came off by itself because the bottom hinge had broken. Then I placed the door horizontal on the kitchen floor to have easier access to the bottom of the door. I had a piece of blanket under the door to prevent any scratch. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next, I removed the base grill to have easy access to the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself. All I had to do was grab it firmly at either end and pull it forward. I replaced the hinge assembly with the new one. I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge (I was not able to put the door back without removing the top hinge assembly). All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover (I had to make sure the door was standing straight vertically before I tightened the nuts), I also put a small amount of white grease into both the top and bottom hinges.

I had to defrost the freezer again before I could even start the replacement We unplub the old wiring harness took out two screws removed the old heater put in the new one replaced the srews and reconnected the harness we were done.

Propped the door up with wood so we could change it without removing the whole door.
Removed &Replaced the cam and bracket quite easily. It did require 2 people, one to help hold the door while the other did the work.

Icemaker waterline leaking inside by the grommet where the water line comes in the refrigerator . First removed the water line from grommet . Then removed grommet by hand from the fridge. Last, reversed prodedure.

Removed all items from Freezer. Removed back panel of Freezer (3 screws). Defrosted cooling fins with a heat gun. (about 45 minutes). Removed old Defrost Heater (2 screws). Removed two power lines from Heater. Attached power lines and installed new Heater. (Old Thermostat was O.K.). Replaced back panel. Runs like a champ. Without the defrost time, it took less then 30 minutes. I had this same project done by a service a few years ago and it cost about $300. I order the parts at about 3pm with express shipping. The parts arrived about 10am the next day.

I have just followed the instructions on the youtube video: It is really easy. I did. Thank you

Removed cover exposing defrost heater. Defrosted the cooling system. Removed screws holding defroster, replaced old with new, by way of two quick connect eletrical clips. replaced cover. Pretty easy once I figured our that it was the defroster and not the timer.