CSX19LABAWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove back cover, exposing fan motor. Turn off power, remove nut on fan blades. Remove fan carefully, do not bend. Unhook wiring harness. Remove three screws that hold the motor on the back frame. Remove old motor, install new. Carefully, reinstall fan blades, hook up wiring, and your ready for tryout. Also do some cleaning while your there. Clean old fan blades with hot soapy water or contact cleaner. Everything runs better clean!

After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.

Get 2 "door closing cams" yep. Same as some others here. Found some black plastic pieces on the floor, when door wasn't closing right. I took the door off by taking off the top bracket. Very easy. Bottom bracket has the broken cam riveted to it. Need hacksaw to get this off then punch it through with hammer and a screwdriver. This is the only part that took a little while. Replace the closing cam and find a small nut & bolt or screw to replace the rivet you just sawed in half. Replace the closing cam that is on the bottom the the door as well. Even if yours isn't broken. Replace it anyway. Put door back on and done. Not a diffucult project if you know about the rivet and needing 2 closing cams beforehand. Good luck

I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Removed cowling unpluged timer and pluged in new one.
Great Service, got part in one day

Take the back panel off inside of freezer side. Cut the wires off old Defrost Thermostat and strip the ends. Attach the wires of the new one and tighten with wire nuts. Put back panel back on.

It was easy after finding PartSelect online. It wasn't obvious at first that my evaporator core(in back of freezer side) was frosting over, (since I have a flat white panel that is about 8 x 30 inches covering it), until I reached inside and ran my fingers over the cover and noticed a thin layer of frost on it. At this point I told my buddies to go get ice for our beer cuz I was fixin to do a lock out/tag out on the Fridge. Seriously, Do disconnect the electrical power before taking it apart. After taking the 9 screws (6-1/4" hex heads & 3-#2 phillips)out and removing the panel, I saw that the evaporator core was completely frosted over. I then put a large towel in the bottom and let it thaw for a day. Next day after getting the old Defrost Heater Kit with Thermostat out (4-#2 phillips, plug-in electrical connection, thermostat snap on clip) , I noticed it was burnt inside the filaments and did not pass the continuity test. I then ordered my part from PartSelect and took the oppurtunity to clean my fridge spotless. 3 business days later, I received my part, installed it, and now have a "like new" refrigertor. Actual repair time - 30 minutes, Overall down time - 4 days, Saving the cost of a new Fridge - a heck of lot more beer!

Removed the 4 screws holding the back panel in freezer compartment and then removed panel. Removed the 4 screws holding defrost heater and removed it. The replacement parts fit perfect , plug the new part in and bingo my frig is operating like a new one. Took about 15 minutes to make the repair. Took longer to defrost the ice buildup on the coils ( 1hr ) than to do the repair (15 min). I can't believe i would have been paying an appliance repairman to hold a hair dryer for an hour. Your diagrams showing where the various parts are located on the appliance are invaluable. Would recommend PartsSelect to anyone and I am sure that I will be ordering parts for my other appliances as needed. Thanks

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

remove lower back cover - disconnect wires to fan motor - place 6" fan to blow on condenser - fridge began cooling & freezing again - ordered part - part arrived - removed fan motor & bracket - cleaned brackets & fan blade - cleaned lint & dust from condenser compartment (took longer to clean than anything else) - replaced fan motor - replaced cover - was hero with wife ... :-)

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

After diagnosis though Part Select I determined it must be the defrost heater. I took the panel off on the inside of the back wall of the freezer and used a hair dryer to thaw the ice buildup. I found the bottom element was burned out. I ordered the defrost heater kit and the defrost timer in case that was faulty too. Parts arrived next day. I installed the heater kit and replaced the panel. Then took off the plastic cover inside the refrigerator. One screw near the top of the metal box allows you to remove it to get to the defrost timer.

I weged a block of wood under the door to hold the weight then used a nutdriver to removed the two screws attaching the bottom hinge to the refrigerator. The plastic closing cam was broken and preventing the door from closing. I found some plastic washers in my junk drawer to install on the lower hinge as a temporary fix to keep the appliance operational until the correct replacement parts could be tracked down. I then called local appliance stores in search of the closing cam and learned that none of them had the part in stock. I then hit the internet and within minutes found a picture of exactly what I needed at PartsSelect.com and had it on order a couple minutes later. A couple days after that, the new hinge was delivered, Again, I proped up the door, removed the lower hinge and replaced it with the new the new one that included the new closing cam. I was very happy to have saved lots of time and money and my wife was even happier to have the refrigerator working properly again. :)

Unplugged the refrigerator. I took all the food items out of the freezer, took out the ice bin and shelves. Then I unscrewed the back panel and removed it. The freezer coils were frozen over with ice. Then I used a large fan to thaw the ice and cleaned up the water with towels.
I unscrewed the old defrost heater at the bottom of the coil section, removed it and screwed the new defrost heater part in. I ended up using some dikes to cut the wiring midway up . ( I was going to use the new plastic plug that came with the new part, but it wasn't correct ). I spliced the wires together ( the color scheme was the same - pink to pink, blue to blue, etc), capped them , taped them with electrical tape, and I covered them with a corner from a sandwich bag and taped them a bit more to keep moisture out. Then I tucked the wiring up away from the coil section. I also spliced this little cylindrical part into the existing wiring harness and clipped it onto the copper tubing. ( I suspect this is the defrost timer, but I'm not sure ). After I removed the the old cylindrical little part, I noticed the cap was popped out of it. (it looked like it was damaged a bit ). Once I got all wiring tucked away and back in place, I put the back panel back on, plugged it back in. Voila'. Easy as pie. It's been running fine ( about a week now) ever since. I replaced the thermostat sensor first since that was the cheapest part, but it wasn't the problem. So I moved on to the defrost heater and that ended up being the bad part. I repaired my refrigerator for less than $100.00. Thanks PartSelect. You rock!