CG206B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I unscrewed the housing unit, pulled out the 2 connectors and here is the hard part, getting the metal washers off the small posts. First I tried needle nose pliers, then I used a rubber mallet to bang it out from the top side far enough to use a reg. hammer to pull it off from the underside. Finally I got it off enough to break the washers with the needle nose pliers. Putting it back together was a breeze,took all of 5 minutes.

One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.
The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.
I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.
After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

Repair is simple as long as you TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER first. After that, take off the cover over the switches (pull knobs off, remove 2 screws and lift off the cover), pull the bad switch straight up off the gas valve, pull the two wires off the switch, plug them back onto the new switch, place it back over the gas valve stem, reassimble the cover and knobs, turn back on the circuit breaker, and verify that ignition switch works. Not a hard repair. (HINT: while you are waiting on the replacement part, you can light the bad burner by turning on the opposite burner ignition switch and using that "spark" to light the other burner.)

Turned off the gas valve and disconected the gas line from the stove-top. Removed the stove top and disassembled the unit, to access the bad parts. While unit was disassembled we cleaned the parts which were to be reused and applied the new parts. The unit was then reassembled and reinstalled. The replacement of the gas valve required only a 1/2" wrench and screw driver, while the replacement of the ignitors required the use of an adjustable wrench. The ignitors are connected via spade connectors to an electrical device located in the electrical box at the lower center portion of the unit. Not a hard job but slightly time consuming.

Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

Not a problem, very simple once I got all the parts I needed...operator at partselect was very helpful and nice to talk to...Thanks for the extra cooking space

I did only tokeout the four tips balves like a screw 1/2 in. And replace the otherones and is it. Less than 5 minutes for all four to replace

We panicked cause even simple repairs on these products cost and cost.....but we remained calm and ordered the exact part necessary from you. It arrived in just 3 days and once we had the part in hand it was easy to understand how to replace it. We disassembled the door with screwdrive and swapped the broken part with the new one. The one gotcha was that we were not aware of the shipping pin holding the spring and we struggled for a few trying to get the door closed all the way. Once we discovered the pin and removed it, it was fixed and we were PLEASED!

Thank you,
Louise and Rickl

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

I turned off the burner and allowed it to cool. I then checked the website for the part and also got a new grease filter and grill grate. When the parts came, I plugged in the new grill burner, replaced the grill grates, and dropped the filter in place. Total time was about 8 or 10 minutes--most of which was opening the packages. The grill burner is designed so that it can be removed and replaced with a standard 2 burner unit. No tools were needed. I was glad to find the parts for my 17 year old dual-fuel range.

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

My husband threw a pot holder on the hot (not lit) burner grate.The potholder melted on the grate and we were not able to remove the melted fabric. We ordered a new grate and it looked so good we ordered three more. I am planning to replace the burners next. We'll have a brand new looking cooktop. The cooktop is 15 years old.

I removed the screws that hold the escutcheon assembly in place and lifted it from the range top. I slipped the wire connectors from the old switch and removed the push nuts. Removing the push nuts was the most difficult part. I wedged a small screwdriver under them and made enough space to cut them off with wire cutters (DON'T CUT THE POLES THE PUSH NUTS ARE ATTACHED TO!). There may be an easier way to remove them, but I'm a rookie and don't know what the easier way would be.

I attached the wires back to the same poles on the new switch as they were positioned on the old switch and pushed on the push nuts that came with the new switch to hold it in place. There isn't much room to work with so I used a small socket from a socket wrench set to hold the new push nuts in place while I pushed them on. The push nuts I received with the new switch were really too small. I forced one on, but broke the other one. I bought another slightly larger one at my local hardware store and it worked great.

I reattached the escutcheon assembly and was back in business. Overall, it took me about 30 minutes.

In oven I unscrewed orfice; replaced with new orfice. On stove top the people who make it sent a kit for $11.00, plus S & H. I installed it as per instructions.