CG100L Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

We panicked cause even simple repairs on these products cost and cost.....but we remained calm and ordered the exact part necessary from you. It arrived in just 3 days and once we had the part in hand it was easy to understand how to replace it. We disassembled the door with screwdrive and swapped the broken part with the new one. The one gotcha was that we were not aware of the shipping pin holding the spring and we struggled for a few trying to get the door closed all the way. Once we discovered the pin and removed it, it was fixed and we were PLEASED!

Thank you,
Louise and Rickl

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

I turned off the burner and allowed it to cool. I then checked the website for the part and also got a new grease filter and grill grate. When the parts came, I plugged in the new grill burner, replaced the grill grates, and dropped the filter in place. Total time was about 8 or 10 minutes--most of which was opening the packages. The grill burner is designed so that it can be removed and replaced with a standard 2 burner unit. No tools were needed. I was glad to find the parts for my 17 year old dual-fuel range.

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

I removed the screws that hold the escutcheon assembly in place and lifted it from the range top. I slipped the wire connectors from the old switch and removed the push nuts. Removing the push nuts was the most difficult part. I wedged a small screwdriver under them and made enough space to cut them off with wire cutters (DON'T CUT THE POLES THE PUSH NUTS ARE ATTACHED TO!). There may be an easier way to remove them, but I'm a rookie and don't know what the easier way would be.

I attached the wires back to the same poles on the new switch as they were positioned on the old switch and pushed on the push nuts that came with the new switch to hold it in place. There isn't much room to work with so I used a small socket from a socket wrench set to hold the new push nuts in place while I pushed them on. The push nuts I received with the new switch were really too small. I forced one on, but broke the other one. I bought another slightly larger one at my local hardware store and it worked great.

I reattached the escutcheon assembly and was back in business. Overall, it took me about 30 minutes.

I removed the single screw on each side of the oven by the hinge to remove the hinge cover plate and expose the hinge opening. I lifted off the glass oven door up and out and set it on my work bench. The door is heavy because its glass so make sure the doors on the way to the garage are open to your work bench area. I installed the cover plates back on so i would not loose the little covers and screws. I removed the screws all around the door and set them in a cup and lifted up the inner part of the door and the hinges are exposed. After removing the screws that hold on the hinges it lifted right out. I cleaned all the glass and set the new hinges in and locked them down with the screws and installed back the inner part of the door to the outer part and returned all the screws back. I then removed they screws on the hinge covers. I did not loose them with 4 kids running around and lifted the door back into the hinge openings and pushed down and it locked in. I then put a little pressure down on the door and removed the little locking pins. I pushed the door all the down and installed the hinge covers back on and it works beautiful. I think the new hinges are better than the set that came with the Jenn-Air wall oven. Thanks Parts Select. Also the new hinges came in 3 days as promised.

pull off old ,add new

The repair was very easy to perform, but the springs in the new hinge were not as strong as the old one. The door would not close all the way unless you held it closed. The hinge looked identical but spring had less tension.

This wasn't a repair; it was a desperately needed replacement. I simply popped off my old knobs and put the new ones on in less than 1 minute. The new knobs took years off my beloved gas Jenn-Air stove.
The knobs arrived within two days of placing my order. Outstanding customer service. I will order from this company again and again.

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

Turn off the power to the appliance. Remove the two screws from the control panel. Turn the panel over leaving all wires attached. Others have complained about the difficulty in removing the old push nuts and installing the new ones – this way worked quickly and easily for me: to get the old nuts off – take an awl and wedge it between the flat part of the push nut and the plastic mounting tab of the switch body. Pull the awl upwards until it is parallel with the mounting post. The push nuts will break, use needle nose pliers to remove the broken push nuts. Pull the old switch out noting the orientation. Place the new switch in place over the mounting posts. The new push nuts are not too small, it just takes some force to get them on (a good thing, it keeps the switch in place). Easy way to get the new nuts on: take a small nut driver that is the same diameter as the new push nuts on a straight handle, and use it to force the new push nuts onto the posts. Move the wires from the old switch to the new one. Turn the panel back over, replace the two screws, restore power to the appliance. It is a 10 minute job with the right tools.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

The repair was super-easy, the hardest part was removing the old screws and switch. I slid a putty knife under the old switch and used that to pry up while I unscrewed the nuts. The new switch was a very snug fit on the two studs, which was nice, but the nuts included with the new switch were too small as-is. I could have driven a punch through to increase the diameter, but I kept my old nuts and re-used them instead.