CCR467W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).

This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.

Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!

The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the glass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.

First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. This will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.

Replaced original switch with replacement sent using the part finder tool of PartSelect. Everything went fine EXCEPT the replacement switch's H1 terminal did not correspond to the original switches H1 terminal. Proper terminal connections were as follows:

Original Replacement
----------- -----------------
L1 L1
L2 L2
P P
H1 HC
H2 H1

If you get H1 & HC reversed, controls will work correctly for each of the two cooktop elements individually, but when used together, both will turn on/off simultaneously whenever either switch closes.

Lifted stove top from counter, removed screws securing glass top, removed screws from switch housing. Removed color coded wires from old switch, one at a time, and secured them to the new switch. Put it all back together and just like new. Probably saved $200 service call.

Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.

Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.

Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!

Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!

Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.

If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.

Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!

Such a simple fix and you'll save hundreds.