CCGX2420W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.

unplugged unit from wall, disconnected gas line, and untaped the vent. disconnect the control knobs and unplugged and removed the control unit from the main unit. pulled the main unit out from the countertop and set it on a table. disconnect the burners and spark iginiters from the main unit. undo screws holding chrome brackets and stove base, to access iginiter. disconnect wiring from igniter and the one screw, replace iginiter. reverse everything to re-install

If you have a burner that begins to constantly flick without lighting, and/or flicks while you are lighting another burner, it is likely time to order a new ignitor. Once received, we first lifted the burner support rack, then the burner cap, then unscrewed the nut holding the metal bracket that holds the ignitor in place (years ago we had to "soak" the nut with a loosening spray prior to being able to unscrew it, so since then we do not tighten the nuts too tightly so that each nut is easy to unscrew by hand or with pliers if necessary). The previous steps allow one to lift the burner ignitor up and out of its resting hole. It will be connected to the electric wiring via a plastic connector. All one has to do is pull the wiring away from the ignitor and then push it up into the new ignitor. The plastic connector protects you from touching the live ends of the wiring. Voila! The burner lighted successfully.

started with turning off gas and unplugging electric then removed right side of stove top that exposed burners removed plastic igniter switch from top of burner valve and in very tight area used 1/4" combo wrench to turn hex screw on underside of burner valve once broke loose the rest was easy just patients and a little determination removed and everything in reverse to install works fine

Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!

Removed the small access cover on the bottom of the cooktop by reaching inside and under the cabinets. Removed the module which was held by two hex head screws, unplugged the wires noting the location and color of the wires. Plugged the wires into the new module in the proper locations as noted previously. Attached the module with two screws, and then attached the cover/access plate with two screws. Problem resolved, repair was easy.

Installed new spark module by removing back panel of stove. Removed two screws holding old module. Disconnect lines, marking colors. Installed new. Problem not solved. Out $128 since new module was not returnable after install.
Called Judd and Black service department. Tech came on service call. Said it was bad gas valve. They ordered part. Than needed two weeks to install. I installed it and problem persisted. Could not return part because I installed it myself. Out $180. I had cleaned ignitor with alcohol from top. Took apart cooktop and cleaned from bottom. Problem fixed for free. Out over $500 in parts and labor.

took the nuts off &replaced the new ignited

I actually didn't do the repair. I called a service tech, but found it cheaper and faster to order the part myself. It arrived in 2 days. The tech removed the top part of the cook top with a philips screwdriver after that it was easy as unscrewing the valve and replacing it with the new one and tightening it with a wrench. He put the top back on, tightened the screws and that was it.

remove two screws then unplug the wires put the wires back on the new one

It took longer to figure out how to get the selector cover off than it did to replace the switch. Once I had access it was only about a 10-15 minute job to install and put it all back together and operative. Actually a very easy job to do.

Purchase the caps and received them within a reasonable short time and just put them right onto the burners. Easy/Breezy