CCE3531B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck

The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.


To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.

The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label

1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.

Done.

This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.

I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

These glass cooktopw are very fragile. This is the third replacement. There is very little clearance between the dropin basic, rectangular metal box that holds the elements, switches, electric cable. The cooktop is mounted on that metal box with twelve (12) small sheet metal screws. Once the entire box with cooktop is CAREFULLY lifted out of counter top. Use a 1/4" socket to remove all twelve screws then lift off the old cooktop. No problems up to this point. The new cooktop comes with the same angle brackets with matching screw holes. Replace all twelve screws. There are rubber grommets for each of five, in this case, controls to keep any spills from seeping into the basic element box. Extracting and replacing these is somewhat ackward.

So far so good. Now you must carefully balance and lift the whole stove box with attached cooktop and EASE it back into the countertop. Big problems here. In my case the replacement top was about 1/8" too deep. When trying carefully to return it into its hole. It was off just enough to crack the new cooktop when returning it.

PartsSelect agent, Triva, was very helpful and understanding and shipped a second cooktop in short order. Very unfortunately this one was shipped in a less secure shipping box. It was already broken in shipping. PartSelect was once again most helpful and promptly shipped another replacement. It arrived well shipped and in perfect shape.

While waiting for its arrival, I attempted to elongate the counter top hole to accomodate the 1/8" deeprt cooktop. VERY difficult inasmuch as the countertop (sorry about the continuous 'countertop' vs. 'cooktop' word usage)...
countertop is Marble.

After a few cuss words I got some little elongation...still not enough. The re-topped stove box fit better. But, the electric fumes hood, in back, side to side, (the worst place for the 1/8" too deep cooktop), was too tight to go up and down. It is a dicey operation. Next to impossible for the average DIY-er. With a rubber hammer, some shims, some rubber bumpers and a lot of sweat it now works but not as smoothly as with the original cooktop.

PartSelect was most helpful and patient. It is NOT at all their fault the the replacement cooktops are so minisculy bigger. It is a manufacturing tolerence. My original cooktop from 1992 was somehow just enough smaller that is fit though without ANY tolerence.

In summary. This is a job for a very capable, patient, and DIY-skilled man, as well as somewhat robust. I have all of that and more yet this became a difficult installation. PartSelect prices were very reasonable and the labor costs I saved compensated for my difficulties. It is not for the faint hearted.

This is not at hard as it seems; I followed the first guy's story and ignored the colors because mine were different. I did have to split the combined red wires, intimidating at first but once I split them it was down hill.
I did have to use the jumper wire.

Follow
Appliance Repaired: Jenn-Air Range/Stove/Oven/Hood

Model: cve3401b

Age Of Appliance: 5 - 10 years


Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4a
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switch
Detach the 'compound' red wires from each other.
(The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.

I attached common female connectors.
Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.

One note:

Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.

Thanks partselect.com!

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

Replaced original switch with replacement sent using the part finder tool of PartSelect. Everything went fine EXCEPT the replacement switch's H1 terminal did not correspond to the original switches H1 terminal. Proper terminal connections were as follows:

Original Replacement
----------- -----------------
L1 L1
L2 L2
P P
H1 HC
H2 H1

If you get H1 & HC reversed, controls will work correctly for each of the two cooktop elements individually, but when used together, both will turn on/off simultaneously whenever either switch closes.

Lifted stove top from counter, removed screws securing glass top, removed screws from switch housing. Removed color coded wires from old switch, one at a time, and secured them to the new switch. Put it all back together and just like new. Probably saved $200 service call.

This was a countertop mounted cooktop. The hardest part of the repair was getting the cooktop out of the hole and separating the glass top from the burner box. It is highly recomended that you have two people to seperate the top from the burner box. Be sure you turn off the breaker to the cooktop first before you do any work. One time saver is once you have the top sperated from the box use 2- 10"-12" pieces of 1x2 or 2x4 to prop the top open. This will eleminate the need to disconnect the power leads (be sure the breaker is OFF). If you are not electrically inclined mark the color of the wires to the corrosponding terminals on the new element BEFORE you remove them from the old element. The element that I replaced was the dual heat element. I ended up having to change 2 of the terminal ends on the wiring harness becacuse they were too small for the new element. Carefully remove the wires from the old elenent using needle nose pliers and remove the old element by removing the 2 screws that hold the element to the hold down clips, then loosen the clip mounting screws & remove the element. Change terminals if needed & reassmble in reverse order. Once I got it reassembled with a couple of the top mounting screws in, I turned on the breaker and tested for proper operation. Breaker OFF, finish reassembly and remount. You may want to consider replacing foam gasket before remounting. Good luck... R. Moore

I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect

I priced a new two-burner unit and it was going to cost $300. I took the broken unit apart, saw that it was an element that had suffered catastophic failure and found partselect on the internet. $60 and three days later I had the part in hand. The repair was "a piece of cake." Thanks for saving me a lot of money.

Easy removal (lift and pull) of the the two element unit from the Jenn-air stove top. Placed unit right side up on a work surface. used a nut driver to remove 12 screws from the unit. removed the glass cook-top, revealing the two elements. Un-hooked two wires off the old damaged element, placed wires (plug and play) onto the new unit, then replaced the glass cook-top, used the nut driver to replace the 12 screws. Pluged the unit back into the Jenn-air stove top.

In spite of a 10 year old model, we could find the correct new knobs, and replacement was very easy. The knobs were not in inventory but we got very good information about expected availabilitry, then delivery date. and they came very well.