CCE3530B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

Knocked breaker removed stove top from iland removed a dozen screws replaced switch put screws back in installed top back in iland put breaker back in worked purfect.

The single burner switches were exactly the same as the old switches, and only took 10-15 minutes to replace two of them, including the time to remove the twelve sheet metal screws holding the glass top in place. The dual burner switch, however, was a totally different switch, and none of the wire colors matched any of the instructions. One set of instructions said there was no need to separate the paired red wires, while the instructions with the switch said they must be separated...ignoring the color code, and going by terminal numbers only, the first set of instructions led to the point of separating the paired red wires and attaching a female connector (which was not included in the package)to the red wire from the burner assembly and connecting that wire to the #2 terminal on the new switch. When the remaing red wire was attached to P2, there was barely enough slack in the wire to install the switch in it's proper orientation. All of this required numerous trips to the circuit breaker panel to test the connection. One of the jumper wires had a female connector which didn't fit any of the terminals on the burners or the switch. The instructions with the switch could very well confuse even a licensed electrician, as none of the burner connections are labeled.

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch

Turned off power, disconnected wires, cut tape on exhaust fan connection, removed cooktop from counter and removed glass top from assembly, removed screws on switch, switched wires from old switch and installed on new switch, reinstalled everything, restore power and checkout new switch positions. Everything worked.

I removed the glass top and replaced the switch unit successfully. Hardest part was removing the unit from the countertop and bracing the base with a 4x4.

I unscrewed the glass surface from the bottom portion where the element lays. I gently unplugs the element and plugged in the new element. Then screwed it back together.

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.

Here is what I did with new switch (part#12002125) and it worked. Connect jumper to P1 and S1. Split the 2 red wires and put new spades on the ends, then put the red wire from left front switch on P2 and the other red wire from the right rear burner on 2. Blue goes to 4. Purple goes to 4A. Black goes to P1. Orange goes to S2.

We lifted the glass top, uninstalled the old burner and installed the new burner in it's place. It worked right away - and is still working. No other tricks the new burner was a perfect fit.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

I lived with a burned out element in my smooth top cooktop for a couple of years. When the second large element burned out, with a house full of weekend guest coming, I decided I had better do something. Checked out PartSelect, found the replacements. I am a 73 year old grandma. My grandson and I replaced the elements within 20 minutes and we were cooking for 16 people. Woo Hoo! Removed eight screws lifted off the glass top, removed two electrical clips, removed the old element and reversed the process X 2. Great company to deal with, fast shipping and I love the tutorials. Since August, we have repaired our old dishwasher and gas dryer. All with parts from PartSelect. Thank you PartSelect.

Thanks to the highest rated user comment and following his instructions the switch exchange was easy. The supplied instructions were of little to no help and confusing. The hardest part was getting to the two side top Phillips screws because the granite counter top was in the way necessitating raising the stove till the screw heads were exposed. Once raised the front cover was easily removed after undoing six screws. The cook top did not need to be removed. Either of the supplied wires would work and only one of the two was needed. The replacement switch performed far better than the original.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.