CAV2070LKW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

put a total new transmission total kit on.

Opened back panel. With pliers, moved the retainer clamps. Used a flat screwdriver to pry off hose from tank. procceded to remove hose from pump. Put new hose on and replaced hose clamps. Tested with a small wash cycle, no leaks. Job done.

I was struggling for more than an hour trying to put the E clip on with the thicker washer as recommended then gave it up. I tried again with the thinner washer and still can not get the clip fully seated in place (only one end got into the groove). Frustrated, I decided to tap the other end with flat screw driver and hammer. The clip seems to be deformed but rested in the groove. Checked the brake adjustment and it was on the min mark. I did not dare to remove it for adjustment, and there is no thinner washer to adjust anyway. The washer is still working OK now after 3 loads. Other than that I am really happy with the purchase. Supper fast shipping. Very helpful instruction video. Only I am not really a handy man as my wife often encourages!

Release top of washer with putty knife (2 clips), unscrew Phillips head on hinge, replace hinge, replace screw, close washer top.

everything pretty much just unbolted real easy. the parts come with a nice set of instructions. you don't need to use the special hub removal tool. just take a small piece of wood and smack it on the ear of the hub to the left counter clockwise. it might be tough but just keep smacking it till it comes loose. then install it in reverse. simple job. you also might need some big vise scrips to get ahold of the springs real good to get them off and back on...

I found the instructions on www.ehow.com about how to remove the shell of the washer so I could find what was going on with the washer and why it would smell like burning metal. I found it was the Drain Pump with Pulley Assembly P/N: PS2347187. It was easy to replace and saved $$$$ from having to purchase a new washer or call a repairman or women.

pURSUANT TO THE VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTSELECT, I DISCONNECTED POWER CORD, HOT AND COLD WATER HOSES. ALSO, REMOVED DRAIN HOSE FROM DRAIN PIPE CONNECTION. LAY THE WASHER ON ITS SIDE REMOVED THE PULLEY BELT THEN FOLLOWED THE VIDEO TO REMOVE DUST COVER, C-CLIP, CAM, PULLEY, THRUST BEARING ALONG WITH ASSOCIATED WASHERS FROM THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT.INSTALLATION WAS THE REVERSE AS SHOWN IN THE INSTRUCKIONS PROVIDED IN THE KIT.

we followed the video instruction that was given,on how too replace the part of the snugger. it worked really well. we are pleased with everything.

I followed the video but didn't remove the motor. Instead I lifted the tub through the top. I also didn't have longer screws with that thread, so I used slightly smaller diameter screws with nuts on the end and it worked great.

Easy as pie but had to cut one with hack saw to remove as it would not unscrew. Rust was the problem. Hack saw was the cure. Otherwise repair would have taken 5 minutes Washer now works as it did as a new appliance.

I replaced the brake spring(not really necessary) and the snubber ring.I also installed a new thrust bearing kit,but the problem turned out to be a bad transmission.I found a good working used one at a local junk yard and so far it is working great.Your how to videos were very helpful in getting the job done properly.Thanks very much!

Used Putty Knife to release a tab on left split of cover/lid assembly lifting up slightly to release the tab, then I repeated the same on the right side. With the belt already flung off of the unit, I saw the 2 screws inside left/right top corners holding the front cover On. I tilted it forward and up and released from two clips on the bottom of the unit. With the front cover removed I saw the pump on the lower right side of the tank. 3 screws and 2 hoses hold the pump in place. Once pump was removed reversed how it was taken apart.

The first thing we did was to lift the top of the washer off the main box by unscrewing the hinges at the back of the washer. We then were able to access the lid hinge screws located underneath the lid. We unscrewed and removed the old hinges from the washer, lifting the lid off the washer. Then we were able to unscrew and remove the old hinges from the lid itself. We then screwed on the new hinges and pins, and reattached the lid to the washer. Finally we put the top back on the main box of the washer and screwed the top back onto the main assembly, and voila! It works great and saved us $200 in repairs.

I followed the directions online, but they don't talk about two difficulties with this model. The first is removing the drive belt. This is CRUCIAL! Tilt the dryer backwards, and remove the belt from the pulleys. When putting it back on, when the repair is complete put it on the two smaller pulleys first, and then the large pulley. The other difficulty that is not addressed with this model is accessing the suspension springs. If you choose not to remove the entire housing, I would use a wooden block (2x4 works great) to act as a lever for the vicegrips. I may be weak, but I have a bruised forearm that would have been avoided if I had thought of the wooden block earlier.

Watch video, fallowed it's instructions which made it a "piece of cake"