CAV2050AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

Open the top of the washing machine by using a putty knife to release the latches at the right and left side. Prop up the top so it doesn't fall while working.
Remove the inlet hoses and put in bucket to catch water.
Remove the two screws that hold the inlet valve in place.
Remove the wires from the inlet valve. (One of the spade connectors one wire broke and I had to replace it.) I used needle nose pliers to pull the spade connectors off.
Remove the outlet hose.
Throw out old valve assembly.
Attach hose to new valve assembly. (My old valve assy outlet was slightly smaller in diameter than the new valve, but I was able to get the outlet hose to stretch enough to fit--couldn't use old spring clamp though, but new valve came with a hose clamp--worked fine.)
Attach wires same way as they cam off old valve.
Position and use the two screws to screw assy back into back of washing machine. (The screws had to tap the holes on the valve, so start out a little hard.)
Reattach the inlet hoses and check for leaks.
I also ran both the hot and cold in a cycle and the reraised the top to check for any leaks internal to the machine.
Pus the top back down to engage its fastening clips.
Job done.
My washing machine is 23 years old.

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.

PROBLEM: The washer lid has two hinge pins that are attached to the lid with Phillips screws (one per pin). The plastic pin that inserts into the hinge broke off, allowing the lid to come free. SOLUTION: First, I removed the lid from the washing machine. Second, I used a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the original hinge pins from the lid. Third, I replaced the hinge pins. Fourth, I used a flat-head screw driver to pry up the washer top to obtain easier access to the hinge screws. Fifth, I removed the original hinges with a Phillips-head screwdriver (one screw per hinge). Sixth, I attached the new hinges to the washer lid. Finally, I attached the hinges (and lid) to the washer top, then lowered the washer top.

First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".

The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

if you move the agiatater all the way to one side you can acess the star screws from under the hinge then push the agitator to the other side and acess the screw on the other hinge , you dont have to remove the top of the washer, let me say i did not have the serial no and the people at part select were very helpful and pacient when i called and they got me the RIGHT part the firdt time.thanks again for all your help the job came out perfect and saved me a lot of money for a repair man. ASHER

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.