C228W-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

pulled old one out , cleaned the area & replaced with the new one.

Removed the old grease screen and cleaned the entire area thoroughly and replaced the screen

I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!

Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.

First I cut off power supply, removed screws that held panel on, pulled the switch up and disconnected wires. Installed new switch, being sure to connect wires in the correct places. Refastened panel to stove top. Turned power back on and tested switch and it Worked.

Pulled the motor and blower wheel from below. Replaced both. I think it was easier to replace the two together than just the motor.I also had old light indicators so we replaced them since the stove was sort of apart. The repair was not difficult at all, and my 30+ stove top looks and runs great!

Turned off power.

Removed two screws to free up section of cooktop containing 4 switches - 2 good, 2 damaged. Removed the dials from top of the 2 damaged switches. With an adjustable wrench, loosed nut on stem of switch that fastened switch to assembly. Noted which of the 5 wires on each switch went on which tab. Pulled off 5 wires on one switch, finished removing the nut and removed broken switch. Put in new switch, attached the nut, and replaced 5 wires in exactly the same position, Tightened nut. Replaced dial. Repeated procedure for second switch. Placed section containing the 4 switches back on cooktop and inserted/tighted 2 screws holding it in place.

Turned on power.

Told cleaning people to NEVER put aluminum foil under the burner units again. The foil shorted across the power and damaged the switches.

My husband actually did the repair and it went very smootly. He removed the palnuts on all switches even though we were only replacing one switch. Then removed the two screws to the switch cover, and slide the cover up to expose the switches. He then took off one wire at a time from the old switch and replaced it one the appropriate place on the new switch. Exteremely easy repair and thank goodness because I (his wife) was the one who broke the switch. Thanks PartSelect!!

This repair was so easy. After I examined the faulty part, I removed the old switch fom the control box by using a pair of pliers to loosen the flange nut holding the old switch. I removed it, and put the new one in by reverse order. The old switch was actually the original switch- about 25yrs old. It took longer to open the box. I couldn't believe I could do it and how much I saved in doing it all myself!!!

changed out switch

Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Removed the control knobs from each switch and the four palnuts under each knob. Removed the two screws inside the vent well that hold the escutcheon in place. Pulled each switch up as much as possible to expose the wires attached underneath to each switch blade. Remoced each wire and replaced them on the new switch. Same procedure for all four switches. Reassembled in reverse order. Turned on power and all four burners lit up and were regulated as if new. I saved $244.00 doing the repair myself.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.