C228W-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!

The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part.
Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws.
turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good.
It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

Your staff helped me find the updated replacement that worked and when I was having some connection issues helped me get it right!

I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).

First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!

Simple replace-new for old

First I removed the two screws that hold the chrome piece that had the switch in it. I had to disconnect the two lights that light up when the elements go on, had to do that to get to the lock washers that hold the switch in place. Put the new switch in place but couldnt get the new lock washers on the both broke, had to go to the hardware store and get new ones just as little bit bigger, they went on slick. The switch works great again, buy new lock washers before you start

Removed grill cover, two phillip screws on front end of the vent holding the switch assembly in place. Lifted the switch assembly and removed the two wires (plugged into lugs). Then removed the two universal nuts with a 3/8" nutdriver and removed the old switch. Cleaned area and put the new switch in place and replaced the universal nuts, then attached the wires. Replaced the switch assembly and the two holding screws. Then inserted the grill cover and Voila! Finished

You probably want to look inside as you read this. Most of it is straightforward, except the retaining clips.

First, I turned off the breaker switch. Opening the control housing, I disconnected the two leads and wrote down their orientation (one is silver, the other copper). In my JennAir model, an orange burner light is on either side of the fan switch. The white plastic on the rear is held on by their keyhole shape - just slide them the only way they can. This gives extra working room.

Since the switch plastic was already decayed, I snapped off the whole central square unit leaving the 2 portions held onto the posts by the metal retaining clips. Using a small flathead screwdriver, I pried up the plastic remnants, working around it until the retaining clips came loose/ broke.

The new unit fit perfectly and easily. The new retaining clips needed to be worked down a small circular file to spread the centers out enough for me to work onto the retaining posts. The file was just barely bigger than the existing hole. The clips can be broken if you are too rough or work them too much. After that, I used a pair of snub nosed pliers to push the clips down the posts. They required a considerable amount of force, but they aren't going anywhere anytime soon.

Reconnect the lights, reconnect the 2 leads, and check for any loose wires from other controls and loose parts. Reseat the control housing, turn on the breaker and test.

Followed other's instructions from the web site: First - turned off the power at circuit breaker; removed two screws from downdraft vent area; pushed the switch housing back towards vent and lifted; held replacement switch next to defective switch and removed and replaced one wire at a time; loosed switch collar-nut and swapped defective switch for new one. Only issue was the "rat's nest" of wires gave very little room to work, especially if you have average sized hands.

Shut off power. Removed screws holding panel.Removed wires from old switch.Installed wires on new switch and reinstalled panel.EASY

Went to U-Tube and watched video. New switch has different wire connection pattern from old and requires some scrutiny as to where the connections are on the new sw.

You need a good flashlight!!

I feel that the design of the indicator light, with the base attached to the bottom of the lens, is ingenious in that it eliminates the need for fasteners in that confined space, However, the plastic used for the base needs to be more flexible. Part of the base broke off in trying to force the base over the bottom of the lens. Fortunately, there was enough left on the base that I could slip it over the bottom of the lens and complete the installation.