C206-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Replaced the drip pans

The door came off easily after I removed the two hinge covers that are attached to the oven. Taking the door off can be done with one person but ideally two.

The new parts fit in perfectly and the hinge pin used for shipping comes out easiest with a pair or wire cutters (you do not cut it just grab it and pull).

After that, re-assemble the door and drop in place. It was a snap.

FYI...the shipping was ultra fast and the price was great.

No issues whatsover with the entire process.

Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above

We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!

First I disconnect the breaker. I removed the defected receptacle and cut the wires. I connected the new receptacle with parts with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and everthing worked fine.

Disconnect power cord first. I remove the air fan cover to get to the two screws which hold the fan switch and burner knobs. Remove burner knobs and and remove switch cover, disconnect wires to fan switch. Pry spring nuts off with screwdriver to get switch off. Pay attention to which way switch goes on so that it turns on in the right direction. Install spring nuts (they may look too small but they're not) using a deep small socket the size of the spring nuts tap the the socket with a small hammer and the nuts will be locked in place. Put everything back in place and your done.

First the power to the cooktop was turned off. Two screws were removed to be able to lift the fan switch holder. The old switch was removed easly because it fell apart. The nuts holding the part in broke as they were removed so they could not be reused. The new switch was put in place however the nuts were too small. I don't know what they were supposed to fit but not these screws. The part was super glued in place. It works perfectly.

remove gas valve knobs, removed two screws holding trim plate on lifted plate removed wires replaced switch and reversed the prior moves.

Very easy

1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop.
2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear.
3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel.
4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch
5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop.
6. Tested new switch...worked great.

After reading the other do-it yourselfers I knew it wasn't going to be an easy task. However, when I received my new switch I saw that the hook up and installation would be a snap. My only problem was removal of the old lock washers so I cut them off with my tin snips and once the new switch was attached to the plate I used a socket on the end of a three inch extension. I placed the socket over the new washer and gently tapped on the end of the extention until the washer was seated. It took about two or three taps on each washer and I was finished. Everything went pretty well. Total time to install was about ten minutes.

Ok, however, from what I read on the internet those who wrote down their advice and experience regarding this particular part, explained that the push nuts were too small to accomodate the studs. I too had the same problem, and therefore had to get other ones at the local hardware store. Apparently this is inherently a commmon problem. You need to provide push nuts with a slightly larger diameter, so they can be pushed down the studs/pegs.

I just pulled the electric element out of the slot and dropped the drip pan in place and slipped the electric element back in place and it was ready to go. It looks almost new. We built a new house in 95. It took 17 months to build it. I got the stainless steel cook top that you can have the grill on one side or you can pull the grill off and slip in the burners. It is only 4 burners but it is plenty to work with. It has a down draft.

Really easy ...followed advice posted from others with same problem. Before anything disconnect the power at the breakers and use a voltage detector to verify there is NO POWER!!!! Only need to remove the two phillips screws on the four controller panel, Slide panel away from you to access the controllers. Match wire/connector for connector from the old to new controller. Reassemble, restore power .. Happy wife!!!. She has been on my case to fix this thing for several years.

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

I removed two screws that held the switch plate together. Then I removed two screws that held the faulty switch to the swtich plate. I then unpluged one wire at a time from the old switch and pluged it into the new switch. Reattached the switch to the switch plate and then reattached the switch plate to the stovetop. Bingo! Everything worked beautifully. It was so easy and I saved ~ $100.00 by doing it myself, as opposed to a quote that I got from a local repairman.