BCS42ELC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the screw holding the valve in place. I then pulled the valve out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and water line.
I repaced the old valve with the new valve and performed the steps in reverse order and the ice maker was making ice that night. I however developed a leak and had to have another valve sent. The problem has been solved and all is well.
Parts select has been fast, friendly and helpful through my whole experience. I would like to say thanks for all your courteous help and hopefully this will help others realize the benefit of Parts select to us do-it-ourselfer!.

Thank you!

Jeff Lopian
Athens, Illinois

Unpluged frig . Removed back at bottom of frig . Removed mounting bracket, removed two water supply tubes diconnected two electical plugs fron water valve
Then installed new valve in reverse order. Except for plastic housing which required some manipulation /squeezed to fit it worked great
P.S.don't forget to turn off water supply to frig. Ha Ha

It is a dream with less than a minute I unscrew the old part and install the new part

We pulled out our refrigerator and found the leak coming from a valve that controlled the purified water and ice machine. We shut of the water source at our filter system and then removed the part. Looked online and found the part we needed at a great price. Ordered it and installed it when it arrived 3 days later. Easy install and we now have water and ice coming from our refrigerator again- not to mention a clean floor underneath too.

Turned off water, ordered part based on photo and partial appliance model number (my model number was not listed); removed old part using hand wrench and nutdriver: slid existing retaining nuts up waterlines(left on for furture reuse if needed) and slid lines into "Pex" type connectors and remounted (one screw) valve to refrigerator and turned on water.

Note: From Part ordered to received was less than 36 hours!

My dog ate the plastic portion of the new part before it was installed.

It was very easy replacement. I was sent a different style that allowed for the water tubes to be pushed in compression wise instead of havinf to screw them on. The water was going ok to the cold water in the door but was not functioning for the ice maker. I had already replaced the ice maker unit due to a couple of missing teeth in the turn wheel but still could not get the water to fill. The original problem was created by the missing teeth creating a steady flow of water ultimately all over the floor. It took booth units to fix the problem and now the ice maker works as it should. The valve came with the proper connectors and the toughest part of the job was pulling out the frig. Nice to have something work as described and fit perfectly. A simple nut driver or socket was all that was needed for the entire job.

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.

Repair work was straight forward except for the change in fittings. The copper water supply line was originally connected to the valve by a flared fitting but the new valve required a ferrule type connection. It was necessary to cut the tubing and to obtain a new nut and ferrule. Likewise the plastic water lines feeding the ice maker and chilled water supply had to be cut so that they could be connected to the "shark bite" type fitting.......no plastic nuts required.

replaced it with a new updated water valve. It was a bit different however the basics were the same-had great instructions with the valve-box is 21 years old so was a little worried about finding the part--thanks to the internet I found your great ad and info was easy to pull up-schematic sure helped. Now enjoying my Jack Daniels with perfect ice. Thanks a million. Bob Valdepena

removed two screws holding water valve in place; pull out valve and remove water supply line; remove two water lines going into box; connect lines to new valve and reinstall

Removed the hoses and the old valve; numbered the electrical and hose connections on the old wires and valve with a marker to make connection easier;

Had to cut the hose fittings, since the new valve was a simple hose insertion and the old had screw-on fittings.

Installed the new valve. The ice maker works fine. However, the dispenser does not work; apparently there is no signal from the switches to the devices. But at least I have ice.

Turn off water supply line. Use Nut Driver to remove bolt holding assembly to the fridge. Disconnect (2) electrical connectors. Use wrench to disconnect water supply line, (NOTE: Since this unit is a universal type replacement, it did not re-mount to the fridge in the same fashion as the old assembly. I had to play with it to determine how to mount the new assembly in order to align & pick-up the existing bolt hole). Snap on the provided electrical connector adapter prongs and reconnect both connectors. Apply teflon tape on threads of water supply line fitting (optional). Tighten (do not over-tightened) water supply line to assembly (wrench). Use dikes to cut off compression fittings from both the ice and chilled water dispenser lines. Push lines into assembly. Re-mount assembly to fridge. Turn on water supply line. Check for leaks.

Shut the water off to it. Carefully moved the refrigerator away from the wall to avoid damage to the copper piped water. Removed the cardboard cover at the bottom and rear. Layed a towel down to catch water. unscrewed the copper water line from the leaky double valve unit. Removed the old double valve unit by unscrewing the single support screw. Installed the new unit in reverse order without following the directions that suggested using the old support structure. Took the opportunity to vacuum the cooling coils while back there, but broke an impeller on the cooling fan which is requiring further maintenance. Be careful!

After turning the water off and unplugging the refridgerator, I took the copper inlet tubing off using an adjustable wrench. I disconnected the two fuses that give power to the unit, and using a screwdriver, disconnected the water inlet/ outlet tubing from the old unit. I pushed the tubing into its proper place in the new unit, plugged in the two color coded fuses, used a wrench to reconnect the copper water tubing, and replaced the unit. EASY!!! So, easy, in fact that a non-handy girl could do it (and I can say that, being a non-handy girl!)