AYG1200AWW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Opened the top by popping the two fasteners holding it down. Did this with a screw driver. Took two screws out of the front holding collector in place and two screws out holding the front to the two other sides. Put front of dryer down on the floor. Removed old collector and used all other existing material from old collector to finish job. Wife could not believe how quick this was. Put back together was a snap too.

My husband and I used a screwdriver to pry open the top of the dryer, then unscrewed the two front corners of it from the inside. Next, we disconnected wires attached to front lid, then pulled the big barrel of the dryer away from the rest of it. We put a new drum roller wheel on the left side and greased the inside perimeter of it. Next, we took off the old cushion set, and stuck on the newer set, and greased drum glide as well. Lastly, we took off the "old" belt, and replaced it with the one we purchased from PartSelect. We forgot how the old one came off the pulley, but after much trial and error, we figured it out in a snap! (this is why this project took us longer than we expected)
In conclusion, this company for parts is wonderful and I have been referring them to all of my friends!

I removed the 2 screws that hold the ignighter & cover in place...unpluged the wire...replaced it with the new ignighter...thats when I found out that it was easier to take off than to put on...but I got it back into place...replaced the 2 screws...put the new belt on the drum...fitted it around the moter...pulled the wheel spring back to get it on tight...made sure the drum was fitted around the wheels...checked the tension...plugged in the wire for the ignighter...tested to see if the ignighter glowed...it did...I but the door back on the dryer...and it works...i thank my father for showing me how to work on machines...instead of letting me play with my dolls...thank you Parts select for getting my order to me in great condition & record time...

First off, the parts were exactly what I needed and arrived at my front door in less than 48 hours.
The repair was quite easy. 1. access the "guts" by popping the two clipps and open top panel like a car hood.2. remove the high temp doohickie with a nut driver, one screw, two wires.3. Remove the heating element from its mount. 4. remove the high temp fuse doohickie, By popping off its wires and little retaining bracket. 5. do steps (in this order) 5-1 replacing new parts. 6. spend three hours looking for the dryer brush, you know you have somewhere, to clean 5 years of accumulated lint out of the lint trap.7. drive to Ace, by dryer brush. 8. (most important step) clean the lint trap, or be forced to repeat steps 1-5. 9. Pop a cold one and relish the peace and quiet, devoid of spousal nagging to fix the damn dryer. 10. Take down clothesline in backyard.

0. Opened packaged and receipt verified the parts against the drawing and packing slip.
1. Disconnected dryer from power source by pulling the plug.
2. Removed the two screws (philips) on left and right side of the main frame to allow access to the blower assembly.
3. (Optional)Verified power dead at the circuitry near the blower wheel assembly (former navy electrician- "check it dead").
4. Removed the two screws at the base of the wheel cover using the screw driver (philips). The other screws on the assembly cover required the use of a 1/4" nut driver.
5. Opened the assembly, and with a flathead, pried the Retaining Omega ring, and removed the damaged wheel (broken vanes and missing straight end of the center ring) and disposed.
6. Inserted the new wheel on the shaft and was able to manually do it until about 3/4 of the way; to get it fully insert it, tap it with a mallet (tap the center of the wheel and avoid the blades).
7. Insert the retaining ring and operationally test it by manually rotating the tumbler and verifying the blower wheel moves freely and without noises.
8. (Optional) Vacuumed the lint and dust from the wheel assembly, the filter and exhaust line (found several broken pieces of vanes there). Inspected heater assembly for obvious signs of damage
9. Re-installed the assembly cover and the main cover back to the frame
10. Reconnected the plug to outlet and tested by a starting a 10 minutes cycle- no noise and constant flow of air.
11. Smoked a Motecristo Churchill as I grilled the steaks and pondered the greatness of the free market.

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Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.

I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

Very easy repair. Just needed to remove some screws to access the heating element area. The fuses are (1) just above the elements and (2) to the right side of them (if facing from the front). Alittle loosening with a philips screwdriver, removing blown fuses, replace with new fuses, tighten new fuses in place, replace outer screws and job done. Also made sure to fully clean lint collection area. I had a good amount stuck in there and it restricted air flow which caused the fuses to blow. It took 6 years worth of drying to make it happen.

Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!

I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.