Models > ATW4475TQ0 > Symptoms > Leaking

Parts That Fix Admiral Washer ATW4475TQ0 Leaking

Leaking is a commonly reported symptom for the ATW4475TQ0 Admiral Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your ATW4475TQ0 Admiral Washer that will fix Leaking. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

Fixes Symptom 17% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
21 Reviews

Rated by 8 customers 

  

Really Easy 

15 - 30 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This drain hose is 42" long and includes the clamps.

$ 62.53
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11748248
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10096921

Customer Repair Stories

Leaking discharge hose

removed old hose clamps and hose using pliers. Installed new hose which had all new clamps preinstalled on new hose.
  • wayne from webster, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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I bought a used washer from a friend and they had cut the drain hose short .

I got a pair of channel lock pliers and took off clamp on the hose, after laying wash machine on it's side, poped off a few little clips and replaced the hose, and now everything works perfect.
  • Francis from Yuba City, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
25 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 16% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
6 Reviews

Rated by 8 customers 

  

A Bit Difficult 

More than 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This part may also be referred to as a main outer tub seal. This part prevents leaking from the bottom of the tub. The gasket is approximately 2 inches in diameter to the outer edge, black in color, and made of plastic material. To perform this repair, you will need to disconnect the power, drain hose, and the inlet hose. You will need to remove the entire outside cabinet to have access to the tub assembly. The tub will need to be removed entirely. This is a genuine part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.

$ 5.76
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11723081
Manufacturer Part Number W10814296

Replacing your Kenmore Washer Centerpost Gasket

Replacing your Centerpost Gasket

Customer Repair Stories

The middle tub would not come out

Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job
  • Jayanti from SNELLVILLE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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leaking from tub

First I turned off the water and unplugged the washer from the outlet. I took the two screws off the console and turned it up to undo the clips that hold the cabinet to the back. I took out the 2 phillips screws at the top corners of the back. I was then able to pull cabinet off and not have to remove the console, but carefully slid it to the side, as ther wires were still attached.
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
  • Debra from Milton - Freewater, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
37 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 11% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
8 Reviews

Rated by 6 customers 

  

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This kit comes with the clamps.

$ 21.29
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334685
Manufacturer Part Number 285871

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Tub-to-Pump Hose Kit

Replacing your Tub-to-Pump Hose Kit

Customer Repair Stories

hose leaking

Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.
  • michael from BURBANK, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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pipe had a hole

I pulled the hose off and notice their was a part # and I went online and type the part # and showed the part and cost. I order it and receive it within 3days. when the part arrive I replace the hose in minutes. If I can do so can you its that easy.
  • eddie from lockesburg, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 9% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
1 Review

Rated by 17 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.

$ 11.80
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743008
Manufacturer Part Number WP596669

Replacing your Kenmore Washer Hose Clamp

Replacing your Hose Clamp
Fixes Symptom 8% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 13 customers 

  

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Sold Individually.

$ 10.98
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746362
Manufacturer Part Number WP8546127

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Pump Retainer

Replacing your Pump Retainer

Customer Repair Stories

Pump requires 2 retainers. I had 1 good retainer on the top and little tension on the bottom.

Pull the washer out away from the wall and tip back.
I used a small metal ammo box to hold up the washer.
The bottom pump retainer is easy reach and remove with a flat screwdriver. I was able to pry off with my hand.
Replace retainer insert into slots on drive motor and twist.
I used a pair of Channellock pliers to lift retainer while pressing along the
side till it snaped into place.
Remove the support box and put washer back.
Then tip washer forward to reset self-leveling mechanism.
  • Frank from ROSWELL, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Retainer clip for the pump missing, caused pump to fail

Pulled hoses off, unclipped the remaining retainer clip, slid old pump off. Slid new pump on replaced the old retainer clip and put the new one on, replaced the 2 hoses, done. It took mabey 10 min.
The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.
  • Matt from Roca, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 6% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 3 customers 

  

A Bit Difficult 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.

$ 11.10
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11740613
Manufacturer Part Number WP285655

Replacing your Kenmore Washer Hose Clamp

Replacing your Hose Clamp
Fixes Symptom 5% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
8 Reviews

Rated by 2 customers 

  

Very Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This hose goes from valve to inlet.

$ 22.76
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11745951
Manufacturer Part Number WP8317926

Customer Repair Stories

Factory hose wore thin over time and water pressure caused blowout

Very easy replacement. The new hose was more like a formed radiator hose and fit exactly.
Removed two screws at rear of control panel and separated the rear cabinet panel from the front cabinet enough to get to the water valve. I then disconnected the break hose from the valve by compressing the spring clamp. I then disconnected the other end from the washer water inlet by also releasing another spring clamp.
The new hose was installed using the same clamps. The cabinet was reassembled and washer tested for leaks.
  • Joseph from PLANO, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The water intake hose had a hole and was leaking. I think a rat chewed it.

I first watched a YouTube video on how to open up the machine. It was a breeze. I removed the part the hose attaches to where the water comes out and into the tub. The hardest part was removing the old hose clamps. Had I known I would have used new clamps. I took off old hose and replaced with the new one, it took longer because of the clamp issue. Otherwise it went fairly easy, to my surprise. Even tho I am a 70 yr old woman I will try to fix what I can. Doing this saved me at least $600. For a new washing machine. I'm so proud of myself.
  • JANET from GERMANTOWN, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
6 Reviews

Rated by 4 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This part prevents water from flowing back into your main water supply line.

$ 53.27
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741230
Manufacturer Part Number WP3360977

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Syphon

Replacing your Water Inlet Syphon

Customer Repair Stories

water inlet siphon leaking , broken tub counterweight spring

went really good, received both parts in less than two days, great service! Video's on line were really helpful and made taking apart and putting back together easier, even though video's were on newer model machines. Would not hesitate to order parts from Part Select again.
  • Lawrence from LAKE DELTON, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time

Rated by 4 customers 

  

A Bit Difficult 

More than 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Sold individually.

$ 11.10
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746747
Manufacturer Part Number WP8577376
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
18 Reviews

Rated by 17 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.

$ 72.69
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742194
Manufacturer Part Number WP3979346

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly

Replacing your Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly

Customer Repair Stories

no cold water, Just hot

I first removed the top panel,disconnected all the wire clips(four)and then removed the back panel
which is held in plsce by two bolts on the bottom and one plastic clip.After that i removed the solnoid
wires after marking them (hot and cold) the removed the hose clamp then removed the valve it self.Attached the new valve reconnected the hose and re attached the panels and now it works great.
  • Jerry from Camarillo, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Post drip from water inlet

To replace the inlet solenoid valve/thermistor assembly:
Unplug the washer.
Turn the water off and unscrew the hoses from the inlet.
Unsnap the end caps from the top control panel.
Remove the exposed screws from each end of the panel (#2 Phillips).
Pull the panel out of the way and pop out the two retaining clips that hold the back of the machine to the cabinet. They are located under the control panel.
Remove the mounting screw from the valve assembly (1/4-inch driver).
Pull the back away from the cabinet far enough to remove the valve, but don't let the wires get cut.
Disconnect the wires. To unplug the solenoid connectors, lift the long tab with a screwdriver.
Disconnect the water outlet hose.
Connect the wires and hose to the new valve assembly. The red connector goes to the hot water valve. The thermistor wires (the two individual connectors) can be connected to either terminal. It does not matter if they are reversed.
Put the valve back in place and install the screw.
Hook up and turn the water on.
Plug in the machine and test the valve.
Unplug the power and reinstall the back and the control panel. The back-to-cabinet clips can be snapped back in place easily.
  • Pat from Hilliard, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
72 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
18 Reviews

Rated by 33 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This tub spring is also known as suspension spring, balance spring, or counterweight spring. It is sold individually. The function of the part is to counterbalance the weight of the motor on the front of the front-load washer so the washer tub sits straight and even during the spin cycle. You may need to replace the spring if tub is sitting tilted forward. A broken spring will result in the tub being off-balance during the spin cycle which can cause further damage to washer parts. It is recommended to check all suspension springs as they often wear at the same rate. Tools needed for repair are a Phillips screw driver, flat blade screw driver, and a pair of pliers.

$ 7.04
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11751118
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10250667

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Tub Spring

Replacing your Tub Spring

Customer Repair Stories

Tub banged against the front of case during spin

3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.
  • Peter from Boca Raton, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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sounded out of balance even after shifting clothes

The tub was out of alignment and water fell behind it and onto the floor. My brother-in-law suggested my problem could be the tub balancing spring and when I moved my washing machine, there it was on the ground.
The schematic does not show where it hooks up. So after I did what I thought looked right, the machine still did not work properly. Then I replaced the three suspension springs and that didn't solve the problem.
I found a whirlpool "do-it-yourself" repair book at the library and was prepared to tear into the machine. However, I did not have the tub balancing spring in the correct spot at one end. It hooks up from one of the outer bracket to the back of the housing unit along between the legs. There is a hole that had rusted through. I simply drilled a new hole nearby and low and behold it works!
Easy fix - the frustration was with the poor schematic.
  • Lori from Parchment, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
35 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time

Rated by 2 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This seal is for the top of basket drive tube shaft.

$ 11.14
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741857
Manufacturer Part Number WP356427
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
1 Review

Rated by 2 customers 

  

Really Easy 

More than 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This two piece oil seal kit comes in two pieces and is used for the gearcase input shaft of your washer.

$ 49.04
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334494
Manufacturer Part Number 285352
Fixes Symptom 2% of time

Rated by 4 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may appear different but will still function the same as the original. The hose clamp is about 2 inches in diameter and made of stainless steel. A hose clamp generally attaches hoses and tubes to various equipment This part consists of a band and a screw that tightens along the slots when it is turned. This part works with washers, dishwashers, food waste disposers, and ice makers. This will need to be replaced if you notice leaking coming from the appliance.

$ 9.81
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743289
Manufacturer Part Number WP616099
Fixes Symptom 1% of time

Rated by 2 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

For upper outer tub ring assembly.

$ 24.21
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742157
Manufacturer Part Number WP3976308
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 1 customer 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

If your clothes washer is leaking, it is likely that there could be an issue with one of the hoses. If the hoses are in working order, you should check the washers connecting the hose to your unit. Rubber washers are tasked with enhancing the seal between the hose and washer. A faulty or damaged washer will not be able to perform this properly, and water will be able to leak from the poor connection. This OEM part is sold individually, so make sure you order the quantity that is needed. The washer measures 1 1/16 inches x 5/8 inches.

$ 7.95
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738697
Manufacturer Part Number WP16123
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
160 Reviews

Rated by 251 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer because of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.

$ 27.87
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1485646
Manufacturer Part Number 285753A

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Direct Drive Motor Coupling

Replacing your Direct Drive Motor Coupling

Customer Repair Stories

Broken Coupling

Very easy -
1. Removed hoses from the pump
2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor
3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.
4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.
5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor shaft and installed the new one coupler.
6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.
7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.
8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.
9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here).
10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.
11. connected hoses back.

Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...
  • Hugo from Frisco, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
217 of 230 people found this instruction helpful.
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No movement from Basket & agitator

The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
  • Jeff from Wayne, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1090 of 1170 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
1 Review

Rated by 4 customers 

  

Easy 

More than 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This part prevents the agitator shaft from leaking oil onto the transmission.

$ 24.07
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741173
Manufacturer Part Number WP3349985

Customer Repair Stories

Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.

1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
  • Thomas from Pascoag, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
10 Reviews

Rated by 56 customers 

  

Really Easy 

15 - 30 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".

$ 7.04
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741866
Manufacturer Part Number WP358237

Replacing your Kenmore Washer Agitator Bolt

Replacing your Agitator Bolt

Customer Repair Stories

The agitator had stopped working

We got the parts, watched your video a couple of times and then began the repair. It went well with one exception. None of my socket extensions were long enough to work well. The required length might be added to the video and the printed installation instructions. Also it would have nice to have been able to order a small tube of the recommended lubricant. Overall I was very pleased. Jack
  • Jack from Matthews, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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could not get the bottom agitator to release, so finally just left it in place, first bolt I had did not fit right so ordered one directly from your store also had to wait dor my tools to get in

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story
  • Linda Dianne from Poteau, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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20 Washer
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
1 Review

Rated by 17 customers 

  

Easy 

15 - 30 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.

$ 7.69
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742027
Manufacturer Part Number WP3949550

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Washer

Replacing your Washer

Customer Repair Stories

agitator broke

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast
  • Joseph from Kalkaska, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
27 Reviews

Rated by 36 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could cause the load to be off-balance which can lead to excessive shaking, moving, noise, and leaks. For this repair, you will need a 1/4 nut driver, a putty knife, a flat blade screwdriver, and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power supply, fill hoses, and drain hose to give you safe and easy access (have a container nearby for water left in drain hose). This item is sold individually, which is important as you may need to repair multiple springs in your appliance, which carries three suspension springs. As an inexpensive part, we recommend purchasing several at a time, as they can be very useful to have on-hand.

$ 8.00
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743345
Manufacturer Part Number WP63907

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Suspension Spring

Replacing your Suspension Spring

Customer Repair Stories

Washer tub off balance and noisy

The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.
  • Gregory from Kent, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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tub off center, rubbing on outer tub in spin

turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.
  • Charles from Rose Bud, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers
21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
1 Review

This assembly comes with one transmission stem seal, two center post bearings, and three agitator shaft seals.

$ 83.41
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334447
Manufacturer Part Number 285203
Fixes Symptom 1% of time

Rated by 1 customer 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This part holds the water during the wash cycle and houses the spin basket.

$ 157.05
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS381245
Manufacturer Part Number 63849
24 SEAL
Fixes Symptom 1% of time

$ 21.33
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12070813
Manufacturer Part Number W11095997
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
7 Reviews

Rated by 6 customers 

  

A Bit Difficult 

More than 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This is used in your direct drive washer that has a neutral drain.

$ 379.68
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS341974
Manufacturer Part Number 3360629

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Gearcase

Replacing your Gearcase

Customer Repair Stories

The spin gear was striped.

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
  • Aaron from Lake Mills, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
21 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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The washer wouldn't spin or agitate.

Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with a flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!
  • david from Monroe, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
49 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
7 Reviews

Rated by 10 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This spring is used on the leveling components in a washer. Please note, this spring may differ in appearance, but functions the same as original.

$ 11.14
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS394983
Manufacturer Part Number 8316845

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Leveling Spring

Replacing your Leveling Spring

Customer Repair Stories

Was heavily shaking.

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.
  • Robert from LEWISTON, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer tub goes out of balance in spin cycle.

Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.
  • Dale from DOTHAN, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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